Piolets d'Or 2020: la big list

Nonostante tutte le incertezze associate all’emergenza Covid-19, gli organizzatori del Piolets d’Or hanno comunicato l’intento di celebrare la premiazione durante il Ladek Mountain Festival che si terrà in Polonia dall' 11 al 22 settembre 2020. Nel caso in cui non fosse possibile tenere la celebrazione ufficiale in loco, gli organizzatori hanno pensato ad un piano B, ovvero tenere la premiazione online.

Attualmente non si sa chi verrà insignito con il Piolet d'Or Carrière dopo Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka, Jeff Lowe, Andrej Štremfelj e Krzysztof Wielicki. Per sapere a chi andrà il prestigioso premio bisognerà aspettare metà mese. Intanto però è stata resa nota la consueta ‘big list’ delle salite più significative ed innovative effettuate nel 2019, dalla quale verranno poi scelti i “vincitori” del Piolets d'Or 2020.

L’elenco è stato compilato da Lindsay Griffin (Senior Editor, American Alpine Journal), con l’aiuto di Dougald MacDonald (Editor in Chief, American Alpine Journal) e Rodolphe Popier (Club Alpin Francais) ed è secondo gli autori "un elenco rappresentativo di salite significative e innovative nella maggior parte delle regioni montane del mondo, salite nel 2019, in stile alpino e senza l'utilizzo degli spit."

INDIA
Gangotri, Bhagirathi IV (6,193m)
Matteo della Bordella, Luca Schiera, Matteo de Zaiacomo (Italy)
West face, Cavalli Bardati, 800m 7b, two points of aid (A0). In a day (September).
- www.planetmountain.com

Kinnaur, Midi d'Ossau (4,670m)
Eneko Pou, Iker Pou (Spain)
The Latin Brother, 560m, 7c+. In a day (September).
- www.planetmountain.com

Himachal Pradesh, Menthosa (6,443m)
Spencer Gray, Rushad Nanavatty (USA)
First ascent of south ridge, 1,350m, ED2 WI4 M6. Four bivouacs (August)
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Zanskar, Chareze Ri North (5,959m)
Davide Limongi, Federico Martinelli, Enrico Mosetti, Federico Secchi, Luca Valleta (Italy)
First ascent via east-northeast ridge, Jullay Temù, 1,000m, V+ 70°. One bivouac (August).
- www.planetmountain.com
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

NEPAL
Mahalangur Himal, Chamlang, (Point 7,240m)
Nicolas Jean - Benjamin Védrines (France)
Northeast couloir, ca 1,500m, M3/M4 65°. One bivouac (October).

Mahalangur Himal, Chamlang (7,321m)
Marek Holeček - Zdeněk Hák (Czech Republic)
Northwest face, UFO Line, 2,500m, WI5 M6. Four bivouacs (May)
- www.planetmountain.com

Rolwaling Himal, Chhopa Bamare (6,109m)
Benjamin Billet (France) - John Kelley(USA)
First ascent via southeast face and south ridge, Seto Hi'um, 1,100m, TD, M4 WI4. Five bivouacs (February)
- www.alpinist.com

Mahalangur Himal, Lobuche East (6,090m)
Anna Pfaff - Sammy Podhurst (USA)
Southwest face, possible partial new route, 1,100m. One bivouac, (October).

Mahalangur Himal, Peak (6,065m)
Ana Gracia-Rubén - Gómez Perez - Ángel Luis Salamanca (Spain)
Northeast couloir and northwest ridge, to 10m below summit, 650m, 6a M4 80°. In a day (May).
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Kumbhakarna Himal, Jannu (7,710m)
Dmitry Golovchenko - Sergey Nilov (Russia)
First ascent of east face to southeast ridge (not to summit), Unfinished Symphony, ca 2,500m, ED, 80+°. 12 bivouacs (March)
- www.planetmountain.com
- www.alpinist.com

Rolwaling Himal, Tengi Ragi Tau (6,938m)
Alan Rousseau - Tino Villanueva (USA)
West face, Release the Kraken, 1,600m, AI5 M5+. Three bivouacs (October)
- www.planetmountain.com
- www.alpinist.com

Rolwaling Himal, Tengi Ragi Tau, north summit (ca 6,820m)
Silvan Schupbach (Switzerland) - Symon Welfringer
West face, Trinité, 1,500m, AI5 M6. Two bivouacs (October).
- www.planetmountain.com

Mahalangur Himal, Kyajo Ri (6,186m)
Ivan Osipoy - Dmitry Rybalchenko - Vitaly Shipilov - Andrey Vasiliev (Russia)
West face, The Way of the Dragon, 950m, ED2 5c A3+ Mixed. Six bivouacs (October)
- www.naiz.eus [Spanish Basque]

Manaslu Himal, Panpoche I (6,620m)
Archil Badriashvili - Baqar Gelashvili - Giorgi Tepnadze (Georgia)
First ascent via north ridge, 2,300m from base camp, ED, 70°, three bivouacs (October); Panpoche II (6,504m), first ascent via southwest ridge and south face, 2,600m from base camp, ED 80°, two bivouacs (September)
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

CHINA
Bogda Ola Massif, Bogda V (5,216m)
Dili Xiati - Kang Hua - Li Zongli (China)
Northwest face, 1,300m, TD+, AI3+ 5.10+ M5 75°. One bivouac (August).
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Daxue Shan, Mt Grosvenor (6,376m)
Pierrick Fine - Etienne Journet - Jordi Noguere (France)
West face, Tcheu c'te Panthère, 1,300m, ED, AI6. One bivouac (October).
- alpinemag.fr [French]

Tatsienlu Massif, Lamo-she (6,070m)
Tomas Franchini (Italy)
First ascent via southeast face and northeast ridge, Wild Blood, 1,500m, WI5 M5+ V 90°. In a day (May)
- www.planetmountain.com
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

KYRGYSTAN
Western Kokshaal-too, Chon-turasu (5,728m)
Kirill Belotserkovskiy - Max Ten (Kazakhstan)
North face. Three bivouacs (August)
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Karavshin, Kotina (4,521m)
Evgeny Corulin - Vasily Terekhin (Russia)
West face and southwest face, Krasnoyarsk Route, 1,200m, but 1,800m of climbing, 5B, 7a. In a day (July).
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Karavshin, Kotina (4,521m)
Gebhard Bendler - Christoph Schranz (Austria)
West face and southwest face, Krukonogi, 1,200m but almost 2,000m of climbing, 7a+. In a day (July).
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Surmetash Valley, Sauk Dzhaylyau Central (5,227m)
Anton Kashevnik - Alexey Tyulyupo (Russia)
Northeast face, 1,377m but 1,750m of climbing, 6A, ED, WI5 M5. Two bivouacs (September).
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

RUSSIA
Buryatia, South Muya Ridge, Mechta (Dream Peak, 2,590m)
Evgeny Glazunov - Nadezhda Oleneva - Pavel Tkachenko (Russia)
West face, 800m, 5B-6A, 7a with a little aid. In a day (July).
- www.facebook.com

PAKISTAN
Baltoro Muztagh, Black Tooth (6,719m)
Simon Messner (Italy) - Martin Sieberer (Austria)
first ascent, east ridge and traverse, WI5+ M5. Two bivouacs (July).
- www.planetmountain.com
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Ghujerab Mountains, Chashkin I (6,035m)
Tico Gangulee (USA)
First ascent via southwest ridge, Steeze Matters 900m, ED, 5.11c M4+ 85°. In a day (June).
- www.alpinist.com

Baltoro Muztagh, Gasherbrum II (8,034m)
Denis Urubko (Russia-Poland)
Southwest face, Honeymoon 1,935m, TD WI3 M6. Over two days - no bivouac (August)
- www.planetmountain.com
- www.camp.it

Rakaposhi Range, Rakaposhi (7,788m)
Kazuya Hiraide - Kenro Nakajima (Japan)
South face and southeast ridge, 4,000m from base camp. Six bivouacs (July).
- asian-alpine-e-news.com

Saltoro Group, Sherpi Kangri II (ca 7,000m)
Matt Cornell - Jackson Marvel - Kurt Ross (USA)
Southeast ridge, 1,100m on final pyramid, AI4. One bivouac on final pyramid (August).
- rockandice.com

Hindu Raj, Koyo Zom (6,877m)
Tom Livingstone - Ally Swinton (UK)
Northwest face, The Great Game, 1,500m, ED+. Four bivouacs (September). Rescue on descent.
- www.planetmountain.com
- www.tomlivingstone.com

Hindu Raj, Risht Peak (5,950m)
Pierrick Fine - Antoine Rolle - Aurélien Vaissière - Symon Welfringer (France)
North face, Sur la route de l'école, 500m, WI5 M6. In a day (May)
- www.planetmountain.com
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Masherbrum Range, Link Sar (7,041m)
Mark Richey - Steve Swenson - Chris Wright - Graham Zimmerman (USA
First ascent via southeast face, 2,300m, AI4 M6+ 90°. Five bivouacs (August)
- rockandice.com

Gasherbrum VII (6,955m)
Carlo Cimenti (with Francesco Cassardo to 6,800m)
First ascent (and ski descent) via the northeast face, ca 700m, D+, 60°. In a day (July).
- www.planetmountain.com
- rockandice.com

NORTH AMERICA
ALASKA
Central Alaska Range, Mt Dickey (2,909m)
Jackson Marvel - Alan Rousseau (USA)
East face, Ruth Gorge Grinder, 1,500m, AI6+ M7 A1. Two bivouacs (April)
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Revelation Mountains, Apocalypse North (2,750m)
Janez Svoljšak - Miha Župin (Slovenia)
First ascent via northwest face - Slovenian Route, 1,300m, AI4+ M6 R 85°, traversed mountain. In a day (April)
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

CANADA
Coast Mountains, Pacific Ranges, Mt Waddington (4,019m)
Simon Richardson (UK) - Ian Welsted (Canada)
West to east traverse including the first ascent of the complete west-northwest ridge, 12km. Four bivouacs (August)
- www.planetmountain.com
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Canadian Rockies, Mount Fay (3,235m)
Brette Harrington (USA) - Luka Lindič (Slovenia) - Ines Papert (Germany)
First direct ascent of the east face, Sound of Silence, 1,100m, WI5 M8. One bivouac (April)
- www.planetmountain.com
- www.alpinist.com

Canadian Rockies, Howse Peak (3,295m)
Hansjörg Auer (Austria) - David Lama (Austria) - Jess Roskelley (USA)
East face, 1,345m, WI6 (+?). All three climbers died on the descent. In a day (April)
- www.planetmountain.com
- gripped.com

Canadian Rockies, Storm Mountain (3,158m)
Ethan Berman (USA)- Maarten van Hearen (Canada)
Northeast face, Eye of the Storm, 700m, WI5 M6. In a day (October)
- gripped.com

SOUTH AMERICA
Peru
Cordillera Vilcabamba, Salcantay (6,271m)
Oriol Baró - Ferran Rodríguez - Guillem Sancho (Spain)
Southeast face, Manjar Rubio, 1,250m, ED. In a day (June).
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Cordillera Vilcanota, Jatunhuma South (6,070m)
Oriol Baró - Ferran Rodríguez - Guillem Sancho (Spain)
South face, Adrenaline, 900m, ED+. ). In a day (June).
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Norte (6,360m)
Radoslav Groh - Marek Holeček (Czech Republic)
East face, Boys 1970, 1,200m, ED+ WI6 M6, partially new route and different conditions. Two bivouacs (August)
- www.planetmountain.com
- rockandice.com

Cordillera Huayhuash, Siula Grande (6,368m)
Benjamin Billet (France) - Luis Crispin (Peru)-Nathan Heald (USA) - Arttu Pylkkanen (Finland) - Thomas Schilter (Peru)
South face, Peruana Supreme, 1,000m, TD, AI4. In a day (June)
- www.planetmountain.com

EUROPE
Greenland
Cape Farewell, Torssukatak Fjord, Peak (1,303m)
Rune Harejo Jensen (Norway) - Charlie Long (Canada) - Andreas Widlund (Sweden)
East-northeast pillar, Ægir, 600m of climbing, 5.11c C1, seconded at 5.12b. In a day (August)
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Norway
Sunndalen, Snovasskjerdingan Centraltind (1,520m)
Jan Kuczera - Wadim Jabłoński - Kacper Tekieli (Poland)
Southwest face, Tordenruta, 450m, M7 WI3 R. In a day (February).
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

Lofoten, Moskenesøy, Stamprevtiden South (748m)
Bernat Bilarrassa - Gerber Cucurell - Jordi Esteve (Spain)
East face, The Human Timeline, 600m, 7/7+. in a day (May).
- www.planetmountain.com
- publications.americanalpineclub.org

ALPS & DOLOMITES
Vanoise, Pointe Orientale de l'Epena (3,348m)
Léo Billon - Julien Ravanello - Benjamin Védrines (France)
Northwest spur, 765m (summer TD 5c), First winter ascent. In a day (February)

Ecrins, Rateau West Summit (3,769m)
Mathieu Détrie - Octave Garbolino (France)
North face, Bonne Pioche, 500m, ED, M6 6a A1. In a day (February)
Second ascent with direct finish, M7 6a, Sébastien Ratel - Benjamin Védrines (France). In a day (March).
- maxbonniot.blogspot.com (in French)

Mont Blanc Range, Aiguille de l'Amone (3,584m)
Simon Chatelan - Silvan Schupbach (Switzerland)
East face, L'accidentelle et l'accidenté, 850m, M7. One bivouac (February).
- www.planetmountain.com

Bregaglia, Piz Badile (3,305m)
David Hefti - Marcus Schenk (Switzerland)
Northeast face, Nardella Route, first free ascent, 900m, 7b+ 7a R. Two ancient belay bolts replaced, one bivouac (September).
- www.planetmountain.com

Punta Civetta (2,920m)
Davide Cassol - Luca Vallata (Italy)
Northwest face, Capitani di Ventura, 700m, VIII- A1. Over four separate days - one day on final ascent (September)
- www.planetmountain.com

Sassolungo (3,181m)
Aaron Moroder - Titus Prinoth (Italy)
North face, Parole Sante, 1,050m (650m of new ground), VIII A1. After a previous attempt with Matteo Vinatzer, one day (July)
- www.planetmountain.com

Sass dla Crusc (2,907m)
Manuel Baumgartner - Simon Messner (Italy)
Northwest face, Rapunzel, long snow face followed by four steep pitches (120m), M8 WI6+. In a day (December).
- www.planetmountain.com

INFO: pioletsdor.net