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Taghia Gorge: Moroccan Honey Moon climb established by Iker Pou, Neus Colom
29/05/2019 - Alpinism
Taghia Gorge: Moroccan Honey Moon climb established by Iker Pou, Neus Colom
Newlyweds Iker Pou and Neus Colom have made the first ascent of Honey Moon, a new multi-pitch rock climb in the Taghia Gorge in Morocco’s High Atlas massif.
Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese
24/05/2019 - Climbing
Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese
At Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, Caterina Bassi has repeated Turkey crack, the difficult offwidth trad crack climb first ascended by Sean Villanueva in 2010
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
24/05/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
21/05/2019 - Climbing
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her efforts to rebolt parts of Mingus, the 300m multi-pitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France, first freed onsight by Lynn Hill in 1994 with difficulties up to 8a.
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
11/05/2019 - Climbing
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
In November 2000 Charlie Woodburn made the first ascent of Harder, Faster at Black Rocks in England. Almost 20 years later, this remains one of the most dangerous and least repeated trad climbs in Great Britain.
Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face
03/05/2019 - Alpinism
Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face
On 31/03/2019 Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti made the first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Piz Buin (3312m) in the Silvretta group of the Rhaetian Alps. Arosio reports
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini
22/04/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini
Italian alpinist Nicola Tondini remembers Hansjörg Auer, the great Austrian mountaineer who died last week in an avalanche in Canada, along with David Lama and Jess Roskelley.
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
18/04/2019 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain guide from Val di Zoldo, reports.
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Mamichula, Adam Ondra’s 9b at Oliana
16/04/2019 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin makes first repeat of Mamichula, Adam Ondra’s 9b at Oliana
Yesterday at Oliana in Spain French rock climber Seb Bouin made the first repeat of Mamichula, the 9b sports climbed first ascended in 2017 by Adam Ondra.
Aiguille de l'Amône, new East Face climb by Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach
02/04/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille de l'Amône, new East Face climb by Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach
On Aiguille de l'Amône (3586m), Swiss mountaineers Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach have made the first ascent of L'accidentelle et l'accidenté, described as being a 'challenging mixed climb’ up the mountain’s relatively unknown East Face.
Jim Reynolds races up Fitz Roy in Patagonia solo
31/03/2019 - Alpinism
Jim Reynolds races up Fitz Roy in Patagonia solo
American alpinist Jim Reynolds has made an extremely fast solitary ascent of Fitz Roy, climbing up and down climbing the long Afanassieff route.
Keita Kurakami climbs 8c+ rope solo at Mt. Futago in Japan
28/03/2019 - Climbing
Keita Kurakami climbs 8c+ rope solo at Mt. Futago in Japan
Japanese climber Keita Kurakami has made a rope-solo ascent of Mare, an 8c+ sport climb at Mt. Futago in Japan. This is likely to be the most difficult rope-solo ever of a single pitch sports climb.
Thomas Bubendorfer, Max Sparber add new tenuous mixed climb to Hoher Kasten in Austria
28/03/2019 - Alpinism
Thomas Bubendorfer, Max Sparber add new tenuous mixed climb to Hoher Kasten in Austria
On 20/02/2019 Thomas Bubendorfer and Max Sparber made the first ascent of Die Abenteuer des Augie March up the 500m high north face of Hoher Kasten (3189m) in the Großglockner group in Austria.
Nadine Wallner picture-perfect on Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs
27/03/2019 - Climbing
Nadine Wallner picture-perfect on Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs
After Barbara Zangerl, Austrian freeride skier and rock climber Nadine Wallner has now made the second female ascent of Prinzip Hoffnung, the trad testpiece first ascended by Beat Kammerlander at Bürs
Margo Hayes climbs Papichulo at Oliana, her third 9a+
23/03/2019 - Climbing
Margo Hayes climbs Papichulo at Oliana, her third 9a+
American sports climber Margo Hayes has repeated Papichulo at Oliana in Spain. This is her third 9a+ after La Rambla at Siurana and Biographie at Céüse.
Nina Williams first woman to climb Too Big to Flail highball at Bishop
21/03/2019 - Climbing
Nina Williams first woman to climb Too Big to Flail highball at Bishop
On 18/03/2019 America's Nina Williams repeated Too Big to Flail, claiming the first female ascent of this huge highball boulder problem at Buttermilks, Bishop, USA.