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08.08.2020 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses

Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

07.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey

Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz has made a solo ascent of the Integralissima de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in an astounding 17 hours. This is the first repeat of the 'Longest ridge in the Alps’, first climbed in full by the Germans Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and Rudi Kirmeier in 1973.

06.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alexander Megos frees Bibliographie at Céüse, the world’s second 9c

At Céüse in France the German climber Alex Megos has made the first ascent of Bibliographie and suggested the grade 9c. This is now the most difficult sport climb in France and only the second in the world this difficult.

06.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Environment

Video: retreating Mer de Glace, Mont Blanc’s largest glacier

The video by Bertrand Delpierre's illustrating the retreat of the Mer de Glace glacier in the Mont Blanc massif.

05.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua

Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

04.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites

Following a line traced 50 years ago by Reinhold Messner, on 29/07/2020 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of L Pilaster Desmincià, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the NW face of Sass Rigais in the Geislerspitzen group of the Italian Dolomites.

03.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher establish Lifestyle on Torre del Lago, Dolomites

The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Lifestyle, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Torre del Lago (Fanis Group - Lagazuoi group) in the Dolomites.

03.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt, Johnny Dawes featuring in 80s Birth of Extreme

The film 80's Birth of Extreme by Alun Hughes, featuring some of the most important moments in British sport climbing during the 1980s. Featuring Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt and Johnny Dawes.

01.08.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto

Mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have enchained the Ratti-Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey, the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina and the Central Pillar of Frêney, first climbed in 1961 by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz, Don Whillans before proceeding to the summit of Mont Blanc. The so-called Super Integrale de Peutèrey, or Frêney trilogy, was climbed in 1982 by the great Italian mountaineer Renato Casarotto alone and in winter during an epic ascent that has gone down in the history of mountaineering as one of the all-time greatest climbs.

31.07.2020 by Nicholas Hobley in Interviews

Ben Moon / The British rock climbing legend interview

Interview with British rock climber Ben Moon, one of the world’s greatest rock climbers throughout the 1980’s and early 1990’s with landmark first ascents such one of Britain’s first 8a, Statement of Youth at Lower Pen Trwyn in Wales and Hubble at Raven Tor, hailed as the world’s first 8c+ and increasingly considered the world’s first 9a.

31.07.2020 by Alexey Rubtsov in Climbing

Alexey Rubtsov: bouldering at world-class Djan Tugan in Russia

Alexey Rubtsov reports about the huge bouldering potential at Djan Tugan in the Caucasus in Russia where he has established 30 boulder problems up to 8B+. The Russian bouldering champ has described the area as 'new world-class bouldering area’.

30.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Trekking

Brenta Dolomites Via ferrata Bocchette Alte reopens

The world-famous Via Ferrata Bocchette Alte in the Brenta Dolomites reopened on 28 July 2020 after maintenance.

29.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stefano Carnati makes his Moon Landing 9a at Passo della Presolana

At Passo della Presolana in Northern Italy Stefano Carnati has made the first free ascent of Moon Landing 9a.

28.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Help save Magic Wood's climber-run camping and hotel

A petition has been launched to support the Saluz family who run the hotel, campsite and restaurant in Magic Wood in Switzerland and are recognised as being the true custodians for one of the greatest bouldering destinations in the world.

28.07.2020 by Nicholas Hobley in Interviews

Laura Rogora: the second woman to climb 9b interview

Interview with 19-year old Italian climber Laura Rogora after her repeat at Rodellar in Spain of Ali hulk sit extension total, thanks to which she became the second woman in the world to climb 9b.

27.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Siebe Vanhee repeats Orbayu, 8c multi-pitch on Naranjo de Bulnes in Picos de Europa

On 25/07/2020 Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee completed a rare one-day free-ascent of Orbayu (8c/500m) on Picu Urriellu (Naranjo De Bulnes) in the Picos de Europa National Park, Spain.

26.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Laura Rogora climbs 9b at Rodellar in Spain!

At Rodellar in Spain Laura Rogora has redpointed Ali hulk sit extension total, becoming only the second woman in the world to climb 9b.

25.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Adam Ondra climbing Genius Loci at Paklenica in Croatia

The video of Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Genius Loci at Paklenica in Croatia, a 9a variation start to the historic Il Maratoneta.

24.07.2020 by Nicholas Hobley in Interviews

Adam Ondra onsights Il Maratoneta, Manolo’s historic 8b+ at Paklenica in Croatia

Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who has made the first onsight of Il Maratoneta, the first 8b+ in Croatia freed by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla in 1987 and at the time one of the hardest climbs in the world. Furthermore, he has made the first ascent of Genius Loci 9a which adds a variation start to Il Maratoneta.

24.07.2020 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo

The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of DNA, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Croda degli Alpini, the foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.

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