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10.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Eiger double debut for Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher

On the North Face of the Eiger Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have repeated Deep Blue Sea and Magic Mushroom. This is the first time on the famous Swiss mountain for the two climbers.

09.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alex Honnold Free Solo trailer featuring Freerider on El Capitan

The trailer of the film Free Solo that documents Alex Honnold and his historic free solo ascent of Freerider on El Capitan, Yosemite, carried out by American on 3 June 2017.

09.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Mathieu Maynadier, lucky escape after rockfall in Tagas Valley, Karakorum

On 6 August 2018 French mountaineer Mathieu Maynadier was hit by rockfall while on an climbing expedition in the Tagas Valley in Pakistan’s Karakorum with Nicolas Favresse, Carlos Molina and Jean-Louis Wertz. Maynadier was taken to Skardu military hospital by helicopter where his condition is far better than initially feared. He will be repatriated to France this week.

08.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Hansjörg Auer: Lupghar Sar West solo interview

Interview with Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer after his July 2018 solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West, a 7181 meter peak in the Karakorum, Pakistan.

07.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Baffin, with Marc-André Leclerc

The film Baffin, in memory of the Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc who lost his life in March 2018 along with Ryan Johnson.

06.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Stigmata added to Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher

Over a four-day period in August 2016 Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent, ground-up, of Stigmata, a multi-pitch rock climb up Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites freed by the duo on 17/07/2017 with difficulties up to X-.

05.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Larkya Main Himalayan first ascent video

The video of the first ascent of Larkya Main, the 6425m high mountain in the Himalaya ascended in 2017 by Georgian mountaineers Giorgi Tepnadze, Bakar Gelashvili and Archil Badriashvili.

04.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

David Lama, Conrad Anker walk the line on Lunag Ri

The documentary Walk the Line featuring David Lama and Conrad Anker, their attempts to climb Lunag Ri (6888m) and Anker's drammatic heart attack in November 2016.

03.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Breiflogtinden East Face first ascent on Norway's Lofoten islands

Russian climbers Dmitrii Panov, Andrey Panov and Anar Demirov have completed their Arctic Odyssey, probably the first new climb up the East Face of Breiflogtinden on the Lofoten Islands in Norway.

03.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Martin and Florian Riegler liberate The Flying Penguin in Canada's Bugaboos

On 16/07/2018 the Florian and Martin Riegler made the first free ascent The Flying Penguin, the 300m crack climb they established in 2009 up the South Face of Pigeon Feathers.

02.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I, Shispare, Nilkanth win, Nilkanth and Alex Honnold receive special mention

Three ascents have been selected for the Piolets d'Or 2018: Gasherbrum I climbed by Zdeněk Hák and Marek Holeček, Shispare climbed by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima and Nuptse NW climbed by Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux. Special mentions have been awarded for the ascent of Nilkanth by Chantel Astorga, Anne Gilbert Chase and Jason Thompson and also to Alex Honnold for his outstanding contribution to climbing in the year 2017. Andrej Štremfelj to receive the Lifetime Achievement Award.

02.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Adam Ondra: Limits are just Illusion

The video Limits are just Illusion with Adam Ondra who, due to a knee injury, climbs in what is a rather unusual way for him.

02.08.2018 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN

Second episode dedicated to Espace Grivel, or to the first 200 years of the history of Grivel and alpinism.

01.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Reiner Kauschke at 80 reclimbs his Superdirectissima

Accompanied by mountain guide Christoph Hainz, Reiner Kauschke has repeated Superdirectissima up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. Kauschke had made the first ascent of the ‘Saxon Route' with Peter Siegert and Gert Uhner in 1963 and now he repeated the line in 17 hours at the extraordinary age of 80.

01.08.2018 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Robert Jasper solo climbing expedition to Greenland

Interview with German alpinist Robert Jasper who is currently on a by fair means solo climbing trip to Greenland.

31.07.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Alexander Gukov rescued on Latok I

Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov, trapped for over 6 days on Latok I, has been rescued by the Pakistani military helicopters.

30.07.2018 by Planetmountain in Events

Climbing Oscars to Reinhold Messner, Adam Ondra, Romain Desgranges at the Arco Rock Legends 2018

On Friday, 27th July 2018 the coveted Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn di Aquafi was awarded to Reinhold Messner during the 13th Arco Rock Legends awards. Adam Ondra won the Wild Country Rock Award and Romain Desgranges the La Sportiva Competition Award. The other candidates were Angela Eiter, Alexander Megos, Janja Garnbret and Reza Alipour Shenazandifard

K2: Andrzej Bargiel historic first ski descent video

The video of the historic first ski descent of K2, carried out by Poland’s Andrzej Bargiel on 22 July 2018.

29.07.2018 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Janja Garnbret, Jakob Schubert win Lead World Cup at Arco

The fourth stage of the Lead World Cup 2018 was won last night at Arco by Slovenia's Janja Garnbretand Austria's Jakob Schubert. Stefano Ghisolfi placed second with Jessica Pilz, Domen Skofic and Anak Verhoeven third.  Iuliia Kaplina and Danyil Boldyrev won the Speed World Cup.

29.07.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Latok I updates concerning Alexander Gukov rescue mission

Updates from Pakistan concerning the attempt to rescue Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov, trapped at 6200m altitude on Latok I (7145 m) in Karakorum.

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