The routes

Voie Petit tackles a line up the east face of Grand Capucin, to the left if the first route up the Grand Capucin, the Bonatti route climbed by none other than Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo in 1951. Voie Petit...

An interesting route on the north ridge of Vierge du Flambeau (3244m) in the Mont Blanc massif which is good enough to rival any classic. It’s a perfect alternative: peaceful, isolated, on stellar rock, and just 45 minutes from the...

Mona Lisa on Monte Gallo provides spectacular climbing past a series of pockets, cracks, crimps and corners on near-flawless white-and-red rock from the bottom all the way to the top. The only exceptions being the first and last pitches, which,...

Beautiful route in the center of the east face of Monte Colodri above Arco in the Sarca valley.

End Child Marriage on the north face of Punta Cusidore tackles an independent line to the left of Cuore di Pietra (Edoardo Asturaro, Cecilia Marchi, Maurizio Oviglia 1992). The route was climbed making best use of dry spells over a period of...

In November 2015 Simone Pedeferri, Paolo Marazzi and Marco Maggioni made the first ascent of El Chaman Loco up the El Chaman face at El Salto, Mexico. 4 pitches remained to be freed, with difficulties estimated at 8c. On 28...

Testa o Croce, Heads or Tails, was established over a period of four days ground-up on Taoujdad in the Taghia Gorge. The result is a beautiful climb on consistently excellent rock — never trivial, but not extreme either.

Les Hommes Bleus climbs the NW face of the incredibile Dôme de l'Éléphant in the Tesnou are of the Hoggar desert in Algeria. L’Elephant is a massive, rounded monolith of coarse-grained brown granite that juts out from the desert sands....

23 pitches on the north face of Cerro Walwalun in Cochamó Valley, Chile, opened from February 2 to 6, 2013, by Lorenzo Lanfranchi, Mirko Masè, Simone Pedeferri, Mattia Tisi, and Andrea Zaffaroni. First ascent and free ascent, 7b+ max, 6c+...

El Diedro de lo Squalupo is located in the upper reaches of the the Cochamó valley, in the stunning side valley, Valle de la Paloma, just to the left of Why Papi Guay (2009) in the Sector de Mamón. On the traverse to...

¿Quién sigue? on the east face of Aguja Val Biois follows a crack system that runs parallel to La Torcida (Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell 01/2018) and shares only one belay with this climb, at the pendulum, while the rest is...

Beautiful climb on immaculate granite established all-free on the west face of La Mascara. It shares the first pitch of the legendary South African route before "continuing left up a series of amazing steep corners littered with golden wind blasted face holds.." No...

Via dla Surité is located in another hidden corner of the Dolomites, on the sunny south face of Piz Parom. It is thanks to the somewhat challenging approach that the route gets its name, Via dla Surité, which translated from...

Lastun de Mareo is located on the south pillar of Muntejela de Senes, a truly spectacular location. To reach the start you need to make 6 abseils, preferably with a 60m rope, then you climb back up. It is a...

Forza di Polacco on the north face of Monte Monaco tackles a completely independent line up a beautiful, overhanging pillar and is fully equipped with bolts and belays. 

The route Hasta la vista is mostly on solid rock, only the initial and final pitches require a bit of care. It is certainly not a sports climb. Only the belays 2 to 8 have been equipped with one bolt. In order...