The routes

L'ombra della mia mano is a beautiful route established ground-up in 1996 by Cecilia Marchi, Maurizio Oviglia, and Antonello Pala on the northwest face of Punta Cusidore - the "mountain of the Sardinians" that rises over a thousand meters above...

Zero Termico on Cima Ceda Occidentale is an exceptionally logical and beautiful line. It climbs the massive overhanging bands of the lower section by exploiting their weaknesses, then navigates the great yellow roof of the upper wall via an impeccably...

Camalot on Rognon Vaudano, the pedestal below Dent du Géant is a beautiful route on Mont Blanc granite - gray in the first part and beautifully red in the second. Throughout its 200 meters it offers many fantastic cracks, some nice vertical...

The route Inshallah climbs a steep face on the main peak in the Corna Rossa subgroup. This is a modern climb which is protected with trad gear where feasible, and bolts on the more compact sections. It features bolted belays and generally excellent...

Voie Petit tackles a line up the east face of Grand Capucin, to the left if the first route up the Grand Capucin, the Bonatti route climbed by none other than Walter Bonatti and Luciano Ghigo in 1951. Voie Petit...

An interesting route on the north ridge of Vierge du Flambeau (3244m) in the Mont Blanc massif which is good enough to rival any classic. It’s a perfect alternative: peaceful, isolated, on stellar rock, and just 45 minutes from the...

Mona Lisa on Monte Gallo provides spectacular climbing past a series of pockets, cracks, crimps and corners on near-flawless white-and-red rock from the bottom all the way to the top. The only exceptions being the first and last pitches, which,...

Etienne on the First Sella Tower in the Dolomites is dedicated to Etienne Bernard, the ski instructor, mountain guide, and alpinist who lost his life in an avalanche in January 2021. Fully bolted, the route starts up the Schöber-Rossi, then trends left...

Beautiful route in the center of the east face of Monte Colodri above Arco in the Sarca valley.

End Child Marriage on the north face of Punta Cusidore tackles an independent line to the left of Cuore di Pietra (Edoardo Asturaro, Cecilia Marchi, Maurizio Oviglia 1992). The route was climbed making best use of dry spells over a period of...

In November 2015 Simone Pedeferri, Paolo Marazzi and Marco Maggioni made the first ascent of El Chaman Loco up the El Chaman face at El Salto, Mexico. 4 pitches remained to be freed, with difficulties estimated at 8c. On 28...

Testa o Croce, Heads or Tails, was established over a period of four days ground-up on Taoujdad in the Taghia Gorge. The result is a beautiful climb on consistently excellent rock — never trivial, but not extreme either.

Les Hommes Bleus climbs the NW face of the incredibile Dôme de l'Éléphant in the Tesnou are of the Hoggar desert in Algeria. L’Elephant is a massive, rounded monolith of coarse-grained brown granite that juts out from the desert sands....

23 pitches on the north face of Cerro Walwalun in Cochamó Valley, Chile, opened from February 2 to 6, 2013, by Lorenzo Lanfranchi, Mirko Masè, Simone Pedeferri, Mattia Tisi, and Andrea Zaffaroni. First ascent and free ascent, 7b+ max, 6c+...

El Diedro de lo Squalupo is located in the upper reaches of the the Cochamó valley, in the stunning side valley, Valle de la Paloma, just to the left of Why Papi Guay (2009) in the Sector de Mamón. On the traverse to...

¿Quién sigue? on the east face of Aguja Val Biois follows a crack system that runs parallel to La Torcida (Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell 01/2018) and shares only one belay with this climb, at the pendulum, while the rest is...