Family Dance - Cima Uomo
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Luca Giupponi
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archivio Luca Giupponi
Family Dance on the west face of Cima Uomo is an enjoyable slab route on fine rock, of moderate difficulty but never straightforward.
From Tuenno, take the road leading to Lake Tovel as far as the Capriolo Restaurant, near which a forest track branches off to the right; follow this until you reach the access restriction. Just before this, there is a car park near the hairpin bend (9 km). NB: Free access to this dirt track is permitted only during the summer months when Malga Tuenna is open (approximately from early June to late September).
AccessFollow the CAI path for 10 minutes to Malga Tuena. Continue along path #310 into Val Madris towards Passo di Pra Castron. Climb up this path until you reach the base of the yellow rocks of the southern pillars of Cima Uomo. After the final hairpin bend, follow the path a little further until it crosses a scree slope descending from a large gully. Head right up the steep grassy slope to just below the face. The route, looking up at the face, is the last one on the left, after Giovani guerrieri per vecchi leoni. Sling at the base. (1 hour)
GPS coordinates
46°16'35.5‘N 10°55'05.7’E
46.27666, 10.918191
Itinerary
P1: 6c, 38m, 7 bolts
P2: 6c, 38m, 5 bolts, 1 thread, 1 BD purple
P3: 6a+, 25m, 2 bolts, 1 BD #2
P4: 7a, 25m, 5 bolts, 1 BD black
P5: 6c, 38m, 5 bolts, 1 thread, 1 BD black, 1 BD blue
Abseil down the route, or walk down; exit the wall via a final short climb, belay on a cam.
Gear10 quickdraws, rack of Totem cams up red + yellow BD2
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