Sellavie - Piz Ciavazes
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Simon Kehrer
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Simon Kehrer
Sellavie on Piz Ciavazes is a beautiful climb, except for one pitch – the easiest one – where the rock is still a little friable; on all the rest, the rock is really good. The route takes an independent line between Shit Hubert on the left and the classic Schubert on the right. Note that the bolts are a bit more runout out than usual, but that's what makes it better!
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left.
AccessFrom the car park on the road leading to the Sella Pass, it's a 15‑minute approach to the start, which is located 15 metres to the left of the yellow corner (the start of the Schubert route).
ItineraryP1: 6a+, 24m
P2: 7a, 18m
P3: 6b+, 20m
P4: 6a, 20m
P5: 5b, 20m
P6: 6c, 15m
P7: 6b, 40m
P8: 6c/+, 40m
P9: 6b, 40m
P10: 6a, 38m
Reach the ledge at half-height and traverse west (towards Passo Sella) following the obvious path (exposed at times but equipped with metal cables). After a short rise, close to the Sella towers, follow obvious tracks down over polished rock. The path gains height once more before reaching a fork and final step: descend left to return to the car or continue right to reach Passo Sella easily.
Alternatively, abseil down the route – but be careful because the last pitch ends on a chossy ledge, and there you have to be careful not to knock stones down.
Gear12 quickdraws, mid-size cams (3/4)
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Oggi abbiamo ripetuto questa via nuovissima. Nel secondo tiro il 7a ci sta tutto, ho messo un totem verde appena sotto il tetto, utile e teneva come una bomba. Per noi il terzo tiro di 6b+ è stato il secondo più duro, più duro sia del 6c/+ che del traverso di 6c. Il tiro friabile, veramente friabile, ma anche i piedi sul traverso di 6c. Detto tutto questo, la via molto bella, la roccia sui primi quattro tiri ottima, sugli ultimi 4 bellissima. Spittata ariosa, ma mai pericolosa. Veramente consigliata