Brothers - Cima Uomo
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Luca Giupponi
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Luca Giupponi
Brothers climbs a beautiful rock corridor between Felicità del nomade and Gran torbolon on the West Pillars of Cima Uomo. Five pitches of fantastic rock; the route shares the penultimate belay with the Gran torbolon and then, instead of continuing leftwards, it veers off to the right.
From Tuenno take the road leading to Lake Tovel as far as the Capriolo Restaurant, near which a forest track branches off to the right; follow this until you reach the ‘No Entry’ sign. Just before this, there is a car park near the hairpin bend (9 km). NB: access to this dirt road is permitted only during the summer months when Malga Tuenna is open (roughly from early June to late September).
AccessFollow the CAI path for 10 minutes to Malga Tuena. Continue along path #310 into Val Madris towards Passo di Pra Castron. Walk labouriously up to the top of the first long slope. Where the terrain levels out, cross a scree slope descending from a side valley on the right (as you ascend); continuing a few metres further to the right, you’ll see some fine rock towers. The route starts in the middle of the central tower (mostly yellow rock). To the right is La felicità del nomade, to the left Gran Torbolon. About 1 hour from the mountain hut.
ItineraryP1: 7b+/c, 25m, 7 bolts
P2: 6c+, 20m, 4 bolts + red totem
P3: 6b, 10m, 2 bolts + purple & green totem
P4: 7b+, 30m, 10 bolts
P5: 7c, 30m, 8 bolts + purple totem
P6: III, 8m, if you want to descend on foot
Abseil down the route or on foot down the path.
Gear2 x 60m ropes, or one 70m rope, 11 quickdraws, purple, green & red Totem cam
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