Via Helga - Col Bocia
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Simon Kehrer
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archivio Simon Kehrer
Via Helga is an interesting multipitch climb bolted with bolts and threads on the north face of Col Bocià. The ‘sprint’ start immediately sets the tone for the rest of the route: well-protected but not overly bolted. A satisfying, athletic climb on good rock, in a tranquil corner of the Dolomites. It offers splendid views onto Rifugio Scotoni and the surrounding mountains: Lagazuoi, Fanis, Cima del Lago, Cima Scotoni and Conturines.
To reach Capanna Alpina (Armentarola) by car, drive down from the Falzarego Pass into Val Parola and turn right before the village of S. Cassiano. From Capanna Alpina, it takes about 1 hour on foot to reach Rifugio Scotoni. From Rifugio Scotoni, follow path no. 18B up to an altitude of 2100m, then cut across diagonally towards the face (30 minutes).
Alternatively, reach the start of the route from Passo Valparola. Take path 20A to Forcella de Salares, then from there continue along path 18B, descending to an altitude of 2,100m, before scrambling up the eastern slope towards the face. Allow 1 hour.
AccessThe start is to the right of the wide section of yellow rock face; the first thread is clearly visible.
GPS coordinates:
46°32'51.8"N 11°59'52.1"E
46.547722, 11.997806
P1: 6b, 35m
P2: 6a+, 30m
P3: 5a, 15m
P4: 6b/b+, 30m
P5: 6a+, 30m
P6: 5c, 15m
P7: 6c/c+, 30m
P8: 5c, 20m
P9: 5a, 45m
From the top of the route, head slightly south, then follow a narrow path westwards which soon leads back to the start of the route. Alternatively, abseil down from the 7th belay; all belays are equipped for abseiling.
Gear12 quickdraws, slings. A few medium-sized friends are optional but not essential.
NotesAll belay stations and the rest of the pitches are well-bolted with 10mm bolts.
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Via molto bella, protetta bene ma non eccessivamente, su roccia generalmente molto buona. Viste le difficolt, l'esposizione e il panorama, potrebbe diventare molto ambita. Complimenti agli apritori.
A very fine route, well-protected but not excessively so, on generally good rock. Given the difficulty, the orientation and the views, it could well become extremely popular. Congrats to the first ascensionists!