Matteo Pavana
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Matteo Pavana climbing 'Queen Mary' at Transatlantico in the Sarca Valley, first ascended with Matteo Faletti
Alice Russolo
Beauty
First ascent
Matteo Faletti, Matteo Pavana 15/05/2025, 03/06/2026. FFA: Faletti & Pavana 11/06/2026
By
Matteo Pavana
Orientation
East
Length
100m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6c, S2+
Period
Ideal in the mid‑seasons
Departure
Pietramurata, Sarca Valley
Published on
26/06/2026

Route



Queen Mary on Transatlantico climbs a beautiful sheet of rock between Il sole e la luna and Servus Franz. Three enjoyable, physical pitches requiring endurance and technique, which can be easily combined with any other route on the wall.

Getting there

From Arco drive to Pietramurata in the Sarca Valley.

Access

Take the path behind the New Vintage bar in Pietramurata until you reach to a small road, turn left and continue to a more obvious forest road, follow this until you find yourself directly below Trasatlantico. Shortly after the hairpin bend notice a path that leads off to the left (cairn) up to the wall. It is possible to reach the forest road by parking at the cross track and crossing it on foot between the motocross track and the enduro track. The path reaches the wall and the base of the climb, marked with orange spray paint and an orange sling on a tree.

GPS coordinates
46°00'53.0"N 10°55'48.7"E
46.014723, 10.930183

Itinerary

- Abseil down the route with 3 abseils with a single 80m ropoe
- 2 abseils with single rope and 60m tag line (from B3 to B1, from B1 to the ground)

Descent

12 quickdraws, 80m single rope for the abseils.
Gear: 10mm bolts, belays with 2 bolts + maillon rapide

Notes

Ideal in the mid‑seasons (in summer it's in the shade as early as 12:30). The wall is exposed to the Ora wind from Lake Garda, which allows climbing even in the late summer afternoons.





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Beauty
First ascent
Matteo Faletti, Matteo Pavana 15/05/2025, 03/06/2026. FFA: Faletti & Pavana 11/06/2026
By
Matteo Pavana
Orientation
East
Length
100m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6c, S2+
Period
Ideal in the mid‑seasons
Departure
Pietramurata, Sarca Valley
Published on
26/06/2026

Route



Position



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Show more in Valle del Sarca

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