K7 SE Face climbed by Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Ducoli, Mirco Grasso, Giacomo Mauri
Great news comes from Pakistan, where from 24 to 29 June the Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Ducoli, Mirco Grasso and Giacomo Mauri managed complete an extremely demanding climb on one of the Karakorum's biggest prizes: the first ascent of the vast southeast face of K7 Main (6,934m). On reaching the southwest ridge, they joined the 1984 Japanese Route and were then forced to descend due to dangerously unstable conditions.
Details are currently scarce. While waiting for further information, we report Della Bordella's words from his first Instagram post:
"Six days on the wall, where we gave it our all – soul and heart – for an adventure that will stay with us forever. 'Rollercoaster', a rollercoaster of emotions, 30 rope pitches, some of them insane vertical ice, mixed climbing with precarious hooks on ice axes and difficult aid climbing…
From 24 to 29 June we climbed 1,600 metres, making the first ascent of the immense southeast face of K7.
At around 6,600 metres we emerged onto the southwest ridge and joined the 1984 Japanese route (used to make the first ascent of the mountain).
Our dream was obviously to climb the remaining 350 metres and reach the summit of K7, but we had to give up due to too much snow and decidedly dangerous cornices – one of which collapsed right before our eyes.
We return to basecamp extremely satisfied, we are all well, and we still have dreamy eyes after this incredible journey… and that's no small thing!"
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