Deye Peters climbed rope solo by Anna Chiaruttini in Jôf Fuart group of Julian Alps

A great adventure! The Deye Peters is one of those routes that immediately drew me in – for its beautiful line, its setting, and its history. It's a 550‑metre classic in the Julian Alps on Torre delle Madri dei Camosci. After climbing it with a partner a few years ago, I've had it in the back of my mind to do it on my own one day.

That day seemed to be Friday. The forecast promised a stable weekend, so I prepared everything and arrived at the hut on Thursday afternoon. The next morning, ready to go, I stepped out of the hut only to find it was pouring with rain.

I checked the radar: the only thunderstorm cell in all of northern Italy seemed to have picked that very spot above the wall. A perfect cloud of bad luck. I called on every saint I could think of, but by then the route was off. So I spent the day scouting and enjoying hut life.

The following morning, with a bit of a delay, I climbed the approach snow gully – already quite degraded – traversed the ledge, and finally started the route at 7 am. Even though I'd climbed it before, I was once again amazed at my incredible ability to forget pitches entirely.

The climbing went well, and the sensations were good. I mostly climbed in self‑belay, linking the first two pitches and soloing only a few easier ones. A few unexpected issues on the second half of the route made me fall behind schedule, and it soon became clear that the option I'd already considered was now a certainty: I'd be spending the night in a ten‑thousand‑star hotel. Very beautiful. Not particularly comfortable, though.

The next morning, I descended via the north‑east gully of Jôf Fuart, where I met three friendly Romans who told me they'd been watching me through binoculars the day before. I then returned to the hut, where I stopped for a drink and, above all, to say goodbye. A huge thank you to the Pellarini refuge for the warm welcome and their help during those days. It was a beautiful adventure.

– Anna Chiaruttini, Villa Santina (UD)

Technical notes
Classic route about 550 metres high on Torre delle Madri dei Camosci (Julian Alps).
First ascent: Adolf Deye and Rudolf Peters, 16–17 August 1929. Repeated solo by Ignazio Piussi, Enzo Cozzolino and Ernesto Lomasti, amongst others.
Grade: V+, A0/VII+.
Anna Chiaruttini's ascent: 27–28 June 2026, mostly rope solo, except for four pitches and the final section, which were climbed unroped. A bivouac was already planned as a possibility. Gear: thermal blanket and insulation using the rope. Freezing level above 4,000m.
Approach: via the snow gully, which was worn through in the middle section and degrading.
Descent: via the north‑east gully of Jôf Fuart – a non‑trivial route. At the time of the ascent, the hut still had no information for this season, neither on the condition of the gully (snow patches) nor on repeats of Deye Peters climb.