The news
29/06/2026 - Alpinism
Supplementary oxygen, 'records' and hypocrisy: the debate that refuses to die on the 8000ers 0, 2, 4 litres per minute... a closer look at the flow of supplementary oxygen and the much‑debated "records" on Everest and in the Himalayas. By Alessandro Filippini.
26/06/2026 - Alpinism
Piz La Buora virgin east face climbed by Benjamin Bosshard, Luca D'Amico On 16 April 2026, Swiss alpinists Benjamin Bosshard and Luca D'Amico established 'Magari vai sì' on Piz La Buora (2,678 m) in the canton of Grisons, Switzerland. This is the first route to climb the steep east face. Bosshard reports.
25/06/2026 - Alpinism
On Rognon Vaudano (Mont Blanc) Niccolò Bruni & Federica Furia establish Rise Slow On 20 and 21 June 2026, mountain guide Niccolò Bruni and Federica Furia established 'Rise Slow' on Rognon Vaudano, below the Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif.
24/06/2026 - Alpinism
Iris Pessey sets women's FKT on Mont Blanc, 5:02 to summit & 5:34 return to Chamonix French alpinist Iris Pessey has set a new female FKT on Mont Blanc, ascending from the church in Chamonix to the 4807m summit in just 5 hours 2 minutes. She then returned to her starting point by paraglider, stopping the clock after 5:34 hours.
19/06/2026 - Alpinism
Balakun SW ridge in Indian Himalaya by Sean McLane, Vitaliy Musiyenko American alpinists Sean McLane and Vitaliy Musiyenko have made the first ascent of the unclimbed SW Ridge of Balakun (6,471m). The pair were in the Indian Himalaya with Christian Black, who was forced to turned around a few hours into the ascent. While it is unclear whether this was also...
16/06/2026 - Alpinism
Himalaya roundup 2026: Bartek Ziemski, Hillary Dawa Sherpa and the 1008 ascents of Everest Whilst a record number of 1,008 climbers climbed to the summit of Everest in spring 2026, the undisputed stars of the pre-monsoon season in the Himalayas are undoubtedly Bartek Ziemski and Hillary Dawa Sherpa. By Alessandro Filippini.
12/06/2026 - Alpinism
Edge of Patience tested on Kongde Ri Shar in Nepal by Elias Hangweyrer, Max Muck, Jakob Ritzl From 12 - 17/05/2026 Austrian alpinists Elias Hangweyrer, Maximilian Muck and Jakob Ritzl made the first ascent of 'Edge of Patience' on the North Face of Kongde Ri Shar (6093m), sometimes referred to as Kwangde Ri Shar, in Nepal. The 2500m line checks in at M7+, A2, AI6, R. Hangweyrer...
10/06/2026 - Alpinism
Gelje Sherpa: 'It’s time for change on Everest' Following a record-breaking season, Gelje Sherpa has published a series of proposals to make climbing Everest safer. By Alessandro Filippini.
08/06/2026 - Alpinism
Hillary Dawa Sherpa: the preliminary details of his miraculous survival on Everest The first details of Hillary Dawa Sherpa’s miraculous survival on Everest; presumed lost, he made his way down alone over seven days from below Camp 4 to the base of the Icefall before being found by chance by members of the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC), who were collecting rubbish...
07/06/2026 - Alpinism
Dawa Sherpa miraculously survives six days alone on Everest After being reported missing on the slopes of Everest for six days, Hillary Dawa Sherpa was found alive near Base Camp on Thursday, 6 June 2026.. He has been taken to a hospital in Kathmandu for medical checks. According to initial reports, he descended on his own from around 7,500...
05/06/2026 - Alpinism
Echoes in the Dark established on Cerro Cota (Torres del Paine, Patagonia) by Kosuke Kawachi, Toru Nakajima, Yudai Suzuki From 5 - 9 March 2026 Japanese climbers Kosuke Kawachi, Toru Nakajima and Yudai Suzuki, made the first ascent of 'Echoes in the Dark' (800m, 7a, A3, X) on Cerro Cota, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile.
29/05/2026 - Alpinism
Four big new Norway mixed climbs by Ines Papert & co At the start of 2026 Ines Papert established four new ice climbs in Norway with Dåg Jørund Vik, Odd T. Sæbø, Eivind Hugaas and Torje Stenkjær: 'Iskafe' (350m, M5, WI6/6+) on Kaffiberget, 'Orion’s Belte' (1000m, M4+, WI5) on Middagshaugen West Face, 'Gjølatappen' (350m, M8, WI6) on Gjøla Northwest Face and...
28/05/2026 - Alpinism
Farewell to Mario Conti, legendary Ragni di Lecco mountaineer who scaled Cerro Torre Yesterday morning the remains of Mario Conti were finally found. The great Italian alpinist had been missing since 14 November 2023, when he disappeared during a walk close to home. Conti was famous above all for having made the first undisputed ascent of Cerro Torre in 1974, with the Ragni...
27/05/2026 - Alpinism
K7 east face: the objective for Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Ducoli, Mirco Grasso, Giacomo Mauri Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Ducoli, Mirco Grasso and Giacomo Mauri departed two days ago for K7 in Pakistan. The four will attempt to open a new route on the east face of K7 Main (6934m).
15/05/2026 - Alpinism
Laktosefrei added to Weißzint by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer On 9 May 2026, Simon Gietl and Jakob Steinkasserer opened 'Laktosefrei' (M6, 300m), a new mixed climb on the little-known north face of Weißzint / Punta Bianca (Zillertal Alps).
05/05/2026 - Alpinism
Divine Providence + Central Pillar of Frêney, an extraordinary enchainment on Mont Blanc by Luca Ducoli, Mirco Grasso, Giacomo Mauri From 25 to 27 April 2026 Italian alpinists Luca Ducoli, Mirco Grasso and Giacomo Mauri completed a dream link-up on Mont Blanc, combining the famous 'Divine Providence' on Grand Pilier d'Angle with the 'Central Pillar of Frêney'. Grasso reports about this extraordinarily enchainment.
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