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Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle

On 2 June 2019 Roberto and Luca Dallavalle skied the NE Ridge of Presanella, marking an incredible end to a special season on a classic alpine outing in the Adamello - Presanella group.

05.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton climbs The Old Man of Hoy

Blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton, guided by his climbing partner Molly Thompson, has repeated world famous trad climb The Old Man of Hoy off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. First ascended by in 1966 by Chris Bonington, Tom Patey and Rusty Baillie, this 6-pitch outing is a true symbol of British rock climbing.

05.06.2019 by Denis Trento in Alpinism

Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta

Anomalous spring conditions across the Alps were exploited to the max by Denis Trento who managed to ski almost every day up in the Valle d’Aosta mountains. While “seeking the best conditions rather than famous descents”, Trento’s mountaineering always starts directly from the valley floor, is fast & light and at times resorts to using a bike to reduce the approach times.

04.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China

Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.

04.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Laura Rogora fires Rèveille-toi, new 9a at Cueva of Collepardo

Roman rock climber Laura Rogora has made the first ascent of Rèveille-toi, 9a sports climb at the crag Cueva di Collepardo, Italy.

03.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl

Mountaineering in East Tyrol: Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer and Hans Zlöbl have made the first ascent of Kitchen Window, a 'severe mixed climb' up the North Face of Bischofsmütze in Austria.

02.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Orco Valley: Silvan Schüpbach climbs new trad variation up Torre di Aimonin

On Torre di Aimonin in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach has made the first ascent of 'Know your cat', a new trad variant to the rock climbs Know yourself and Cani & Gatti

01.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard

Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.

31.05.2019 by Nadia Tiraboschi in Alpinism

Nadia Tiraboschi rebolts her Via dei Cugini up Pizzo Arera

Nadia Tiraboschi reports about the the re-bolting of Via dei Cugini on the NW Face of Pizzo Arera (Bergamo Alps), established on 07/14/1990 by Nadia with her brother Enzo and her cousin Ivan Tiraboschi.

Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti

Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.

29.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Steve McClure masters GreatNess Wall, huge E10 trad route at Nesscliffe

Britain’s Steve McClure has made the first ascent of GreatNess Wall, the long-standing trad climbing project at Nesscliffe, England. Graded E10 7a, this checks in as one of the most difficult trad climbs in Great Britain.

29.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Dolorock Climbing Festival 2019 registers record numbers despite rain

Bad weather did not stop the 7th edition of the Dolorock Climbing Festival which welcomed a record number of climbers. Organised by the ‘Gamatzn' climbing club, the meeting took place from 24 to 26 May 2019 at Sexten and in the Höhlensteintal in the Dolomites, close to the world famous the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, and once again it was an important moment for sport and culture

29.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Taghia Gorge: Moroccan Honey Moon climb established by Iker Pou, Neus Colom

Newlyweds Iker Pou and Neus Colom have made the first ascent of Honey Moon, a new multi-pitch rock climb in the Taghia Gorge in Morocco’s High Atlas massif.

28.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Sarah Kampf controls Headcrash in Frankenjura

Sarah Kampf, née Sarah Seeger, has repeated the powerful Headcrash, an 8c sports climb originally freed by Werner Thon in the Frankenjura, Germany. The 38-year-old mother of two recounts her road to the redpoint.

27.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Interviews

David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen

Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere 200 vertical meters below the summit.

26.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alexander Feichter discovers Sid Lives at Nago, Arco

South Tyrolean climber Alexander Feichter has repeated Sid Lives, the 9a sports climb put up by Gabriele Moroni at Nago, Arco, Italy.

24.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

The Principles of Alpine Climbing / Mountain safety with Steve House

American alpinist Steve House has created a free video series entitled Alpine Principles to teach the climbing community how to make better decisions in the mountains.

24.05.2019 by Caterina Bassi in Climbing

Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese

At Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, Caterina Bassi has repeated Turkey crack, the difficult offwidth trad crack climb first ascended by Sean Villanueva in 2010

24.05.2019 by Ezio Marlier in Alpinism

Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif

Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.

23.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Chamlang NW Face climbed by Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák

Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák have climbed a new route up the NW Face of Chamlang in Nepal.




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