Bernd Zangerl frees top boulder problem in Valle dell’Orco
In Valle Orco, Italy, Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of the sitdown start to I Coloniali, describing it as 'one of the best boulders I've ever climbed.'
Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2019, film premieres and top speakers at the Alpine Village
Film premieres and top speakers feature highly in the Alpine Village program of the Arcteryx Alpine Academy 2019, the unique event from 4 - 7 July for climbers of all abilities wishing to learn more about climbing and alpinism directly at Chamonix Mont Blanc.
Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini add new climb to Mittlere Kasten in Austria
Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini have made the first ascent of Alles im Kasten, a five-pitch climb up Mittlere Kasten close to Klas in the Hoher Tauern massif in Austria.
Chiara Hanke in Frankenjura becomes first German woman to climb 9a
25-year-old Chiara Hanke has repeated Sever the wicked hand in the Frankenjura and, in doing so, has become the first German woman to climb 9a.
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska
Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.
Ice & Palms, Jochen Mesle and Max Kroneck cycle ski across the Alps
The award-winning film Ice & Palms that documents the extraordinary journey carried out by Jochen Mesle and Max Kroneck across the Alps by bike and of skis from Germany to Nice in France
Plane lands below summit of Mont Blanc
On Tuesday morning a plane containing two Swissmen landed circa 400 meters below the summit of Mont Blanc, before being intercepted by police.
King Cobra on Mount Barrill, big wall variation to Cobra Pillar in Alaska
Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Alastair McDowell and John Price have made the first ascent of King Cobra (550m, 5.11), a 350m variation to the famous Cobra Pillar on the East Face of Mount Barrill (2332m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°
Gran Paradiso new summit ascent and descent route. Interview with Alex Chabod
Interview with Alex Chabod, vice president of the Gran Paradiso Mountain Guides, after the decision to recommend an ascent route and a different descent route on Gran Paradiso in order to avoid queues forming on the final meters to the summit.
Sébastien Bouin climbs Move, Adam Ondra's 9b/+ at Flatanger in Norway
Seb Bouin from France yesterday made the first repeat of Move at the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway, established in 2013 by Adam Ondra.
Dave MacLeod coasts along The Golden Road in Scotland
Scottish rock climber Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of The Golden Road. Located at Creag Mo on the Isle of Harris, Outer Hebrides, this trad climb checks in at E9.
Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
A group of Italian mountaineers comprised of Matteo della Bordella, Maurizio Giordani, Massimo Faletti and David Hall are about to embark on a one-month expedition to explore unchartered mountains in Pakistan.
Michi Wohlleben climbs E9 trad and 9a sport
Germany’s Michi Wohlleben has repeated the E9 trad climb Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs in Austria, as well as the 9a sport climb Speed Integrale at Voralpsee in Switzerland.
James Webb climbs The Healing, one of his absolute best at Rocklands
American climber Jimmy Webb has made the first ascent of The Healing at Rocklands, describing the 8B+ boulder problem as 'one of the absolute best lines I’ve ever touched.'
Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka, Jeff Lowe and Andrej Štremfelj.
Speta che Vegno, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle del Sarca
On Croz dele Mirandole (Roccione di Ranzo) at Ranzo in the Sarca valley, Italy, Nicola Cont, Martin Giovanazzi and Elio Mazzalai have made the first ascent of Speta che Vegno, a new multi-pitch climb they established ground-up.
Jesse Dufton and his extraordinary ascent of The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland
Interview with blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton who the famous trad climbing route The Old Man of Hoy off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. Guided by his climbing partner Molly Thompson, the achievement has been recognised by the Scottish parliament.
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is described as 'the hardest climb we have done together in the mountains.'
Highball bouldering at Rocklands: Giuliano Cameroni, Shawn Raboutou, Daniel Woods
Giuliano Cameroni, Shawn Raboutou and Daniel Woods on two of the finest highball boulder problems at Rocklands in South Africa: The Smile and The Finnish Line.
