Titus Prinoth makes solo winter ascent of 10 ani do in Dolomites, Italy

"Perhaps the most beautiful and intense adventure of my winter: a solo ascent of 10 ani do (10 Years Later) on Punta Maffei." These are the words of Titus Prinoth, the 28-year-old hailing from the South Tyrol, Italy, who recently pulled off another of his signature feats by repeating 10 ani do (10 Years Later) on Langkofel / Sassopiatto in the Dolomites. The route had been first ascended in 1994 by Stefan Comploi and Ivo Rabanser on the steep Punta Maffei, with sections rated up to VII/AI, and until a month ago had never been repeated.

The Val Gardena mountain guide set out on 25 February and managed to rope-solo up to the large ledge, where he bivouacked in his G7 Pod inflatable portaledge. Early the next day, Prinoth resumed climbing and reached the summit around noon. He returned to his car at around 4 p.m., having completed the first repeat, the first winter ascent, the first solo ascent, and the first free ascent of the route. Notably, he managed to climb all pitches on-sight while self-belaying, with difficulties up to VII+/VIII-.

"It's hard to believe a hidden gem like this went 32 years without a repeat, but that isolation is exactly what defines it." recounted Prinoth.

The route sits in one of the wildest corners of the Sassolungo Group. It was an honor to complete the first winter repeat on a peak dedicated to "Feo" Graziano Maffei (1939–1994), especially on a line that demands such rigorous and pure ethics.

First ascended by Ivo Rabanser and Stefan Comploi in 1994, the route was originally graded VII/A1. While grading winter climbing is always subjective, I found the free-climbing difficulties to be around VII+/VIII-.

With only 9 pegs at the belays and 2 on the pitches left in-situ of the original 34 used during the first ascent, the route remains a committing and authentic adventure."

Further details of the ascent: Prinoth used about 10 pegs and left two of them on the route, at the belays. As usual, he did not have a bolt kit with him. During the descent, he was forced to avoid a slope due to the high risk of avalanches and instead he abseiled down a wall, setting up belays with threads and pegs.

“The main goal was to repeat the route, but actually it all went really well and I also managed to free it" explained the 27-year-old. "I always enjoy solo climbs. They’re extremely exhausting, but they’re always a fantastic experience. I feel good on my own in the mountains."