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Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth and Martin Dejori on the summit of their Guardiano dei sogni, Terza Pala di San Lucano, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites, first ascended from 01 to 04 November 2020
Photo by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
Guardiano dei sogni, Terza Pala di San Lucano, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites (Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth 01-04-11/2020)
Photo by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
Guardiano dei sogni, Terza Pala di San Lucano, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites (Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth 01-04-11/2020)
Photo by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
The line of Guardiano dei sogni, Terza Pala di San Lucano, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites, first ascended by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth from 01-04/11/2020
Photo by Ettore De Biasio

Dolomites Pale di San Lucano: big new climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth

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The South Tyrolean mountaineers Alex Walpoth, Titus Prinoth and Martin Dejori have made the first ascent of Guardiano dei Sogni on Terza Pala di San Lucano, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites. This big, 1400m new route was established with three bivouacs.

It’s the usual trio of young Val Gardena mountaineers, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth and Martin Dejori, who set a mark at the start of November with a major new addition to the immense Terza Pala di San Lucano, in the Pale di San Lucano group of the Italian Dolomites.

The trio - without a shadow of doubt currently one of the strongest teams in the Dolomites - travelled to the secluded San Lucano valley at the end of October in order to establish Guardiano dei sogni, Guardian of dreams. This takes a direct line between via Paolo Armando and Spazzacamino, is 1400m long, and was established with three bivouacs from 1 to 4 November 2020. Difficulties are in the region of VIII + A0 and the line, needless to say, is protected by wires, cams and pegs. No bolts. These didn’t even find their way into… their rucksacks.

Guardiano dei Sogni follows Ritorni, first ascended on the nearby Seconda Pala by Walpoth and Prinoth in June 2019, and the first repeat (and first winter ascent) of Storia Infinita on Monte Agner in the same massif by Dejori and Prinoth at the end of 2015.

More details of this new undertaking "which is particularly important" to the young climbers on the "incomparable south face" will follow in due course.

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