First ascents of Kaikiawila, Ngoku and other new climbs in Angola

After last year's expedition to Angola, we knew the best was yet to be discovered – and that we wouldn't wait long to return. That's why this year, with little convincing needed, we gathered a team of seven friends with varying objectives and availability. We chose July for our trip since, despite the heat, it coincides with the dry season.

Our primary goal was to explore and attempt new routes on the massive granite mountains south of Cumbira Segundo – formations we hadn’t had time to assess last year. Among these, two stood out: Kaikiawila (~1,500m) and Ngoku (~1,550m). These granite monoliths, with walls ranging from 400 to 700 meters, rise deep in the African jungle, where half the adventure is simply reaching their bases.

In these places, where outsiders rarely visit, the real "climbing" begins by explaining to the community leaders (called "sobas" in their language) what we do and what we aim to achieve on their lands. After several meetings in Itumbu - showing them photos, referencing our previous work with "Climbing for a Reason" last year, and always supported by the Cumbira team - they agreed to let us climb their mountains. From that moment onward, we maintained direct communication with them, ensuring they were active participants as we progressed through every stage.

Kaikiawila was our first objective - a granite fang of about 500 meters visible from all sides of the area, and for many the main reason for the trip. After walking around much of its base, we realized there weren't many options to start, and in the end we chose a line of very wide cracks that seemed to lead us close to the summit.

We began with great anticipation, as many villagers had come to the base. We opted for short 2-day pushes, ending up spending two nights on a small ledge about 300 meters off the ground, where three of us could sit squeezed together.

Six very intense days of climbing followed, where we managed to overcome difficult sections of wide cracks, a tough chimney, and a final 100 meters that forced us to retreat when we were already imagining ourselves on top. Temperatures reaching 30°C made it necessary to climb during the first and last hours of daylight.

Twelve relentless pitches later, we achieved the first ascent of the peak we'd been dreaming about all these months: Terra da Ginguba (480m, 7b, A0) - named in honour of all those farmers who accompanied us from their peanut (ginguba) and cassava fields, and who cheered with us as we summited their most treasured mountain.

While we were establishing our climb, part of the team began opening a new line on the most distinctive mountain in Cumbira II - Cunduville. Undoubtedly the most climbed mountain in the area, it features rough slabs with pitches that don't exceed grade V, plus its base is just minutes from the village. Four days of climbing during the cooler hours were needed to establish John Frango (325m, 7a). This route traverses the central section of the wall, with demanding pitches on the vertical final section.

Our next objectives focused on establishing the first routes up the area's largest formation: Ngoku. The people of Itumbu warned us about its sacred nature – of ancient tombs we shouldn't disturb at the summit, and lakes inhabited by sirens hidden in the vast jungles above. With these stories in mind, we had no choice but to go see for ourselves...

One team headed for the shaded wall leading to the southern summit, while others attempted the longer but easier line to the main peak. Two days of climbing sufficed to complete the six slab pitches of Walale Po (285m, 6c+). The other team, after camping at the base, climbed the roughly 500-meter great corner in just hours, reaching Ngoku's main summit directly via O Caminho das Sereias (~500m, IV) – a classic, straightforward climb with exposed sections. Our descent proved tedious – perhaps because we followed some trails of sirens we never quite glimpsed.

During this adventure, we established excellent relationships with the people of Itumbu. The "seed" planted last year with Climbing for a Reason in this area is already showing results in surrounding villages. They tell us climbers of many nationalities have come this year, both as volunteers and independently.

Little by little, climbing in the area is developing, with more than a dozen adventure routes leading to the most representative summits. There are also several sport climbing sectors, with 2 new ones added this season - one at the base of Cawanji and another we opened on a shaded wall in Itumbu village. Additionally, there are countless boulder problems and endless possibilities.

Thanks to the children of Cumbira, everything was much easier. They were always willing to help and above all to learn at every moment. We did several climbs with them and are certain they'll be the future of this place in every way.

"Muito obrigado" to Francisco, Mateo, Fernando, Ivo, Mariza, Ramiro and Chico. Additionally, thanks to contributions from friends and family in Spain, we've managed to provide school supplies for more than 1,000 children in Itumbu and Cumbira villages, and to repair and repaint the preschools in Cumbira.

We encourage everyone to come experience, climb and help develop this corner of the world, where adventure is guaranteed.

• Terra da Ginguba (480m, 7b, A0) – (12 pitches) Indi Gutierrez, Gonzalo Torre, David Matos, Manu Ponce – First ascent of Kaikiawila
• Walale Po (285m, 6c+) – (6 pitches) Miguel A. Díaz, Gonzalo Torre – First route to the south summit of Ngoku
• O Caminho das Sereias (~ 500m, IV) – Indi Gutierres, Manu Ponce – First route to the main summit of Ngoku
• John Frango (325m, 7a) – (9 pitches) David Matos, Juanjo Medina, Álvaro García – 5th route to the summit of the iconic Cunduville.
• 7 new sport climbs at Itumbu between grades IV - 6c

- Manu Ponce, Murcia