Marcello Bombardi repeats La Fenice, 8c multipitch at Rocca dei Campanili

After the first repeat this summer of "Ego Land" on the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites), in October Marcello Bombardi also secured the first repeat of "La Fenice" on Rocca dei Campanili del Mongioie in NW Italy. This 150m multipitch was established and freed on the splendid south face of the "most beautiful limestone in the Ligurian Alps" by Matteo Gambaro in 2021. The second pitch in particular, according to Gambaro, "is perhaps the most beautiful thing I have ever bolted," and with its mandatory 7c climbing and an overall grade of 8c, it was obviously a gem, and a challenge, reserved for a select few. One that Bombardi couldn't resist.

LA FENICE AT MONGIOIE by Marcello Bombardi

As climbers, we often find ourselves dreaming about the next line to climb even before we've climbed the one we're working on, just as we dream of visiting famous places before checking out the beautiful crags we have near home. Since I started climbing multipitch routes, this realm has not been exempt from this captivating game, filled with tales of exceptional routes at Wenden, in Sardinia, and the Dolomites, and questions from friends like, "Why don't you go try those routes?"

I am also the first to enjoy travelling to climb in new places and at the same time discover different cultures and get to know new environments, but if we stop for a moment and look at what is in our own backyard, especially for those like me who are lucky enough to live in places so good for climbing, perhaps we will discover that we can have valuable experiences in places we would never have imagined, without having to travel far.

For the past few months, free from many commitments, I've found myself comfortable with this philosophy, and the experience on "La Fenice" is just one of many. Mongioie isn't exactly in my backyard, but it's still closer than many other places. I had been told it was a magical place with exceptional rock, but I hadn't experienced it firsthand yet.

Additionally, there was a route that interested me because of its difficulties, which Matteo himself had praised for its beauty. ‘One of the most beautiful pitches I've ever bolted,’ he once told me, and Matteo can boast quite a few beautiful climbs to his name. So why not go and find out? Expectations were high, but they were definitely not disappointed.

I admit that I was a little cocky on my first reconnaissance trip in July with Claudio Martoglio. Although it's a multi-pitch, "La Fenice" concentrates all its difficulties in the first two pitches: a non-trivial 8a and the 8c crux, followed by three easy lengths to reach the summit. "An 8c on crimps on the second pitch should go down quite quickly," I thought to myself. Instead, the blazing summer sun, the sharp edges on the crux and an uncomfortable hanging belay with no escape route proved to be tough obstacles, making the experience longer, more painful, more hard-fought. And more memorable. Just how I like it!

I returned in October, this time accompanied by the ever-positive Filu and photographer Diego Borello. Low clouds besieged us on both days, leaving us at times disheartened and damp from the humidity, at times grateful for the respite from the still-warm sun. As I began my first attempt on the second day, the tension rose. I knew I didn't have many good skin-saving attempts left in the tank. I wanted to enjoy the climbing on this amazing grey sheet of limestone, but I also wanted to send the route.

I knew I had to perform now if I didn't want to plan on coming back another time, find other partners, make the long approach hike once again. Ready for a fight on the bullet-proof rock, I finally left the uncomfortable belay. I managed to climb fluidly, feeling the rock under my fingertips and my heel hook relieving just enough wieght. The final high rockover onto my left foot was done, then the dyno to the thank God jug — I managed to stick it, the hardest pitch was ib the bag! Now I could finally relax and enjoy the rest of climb!

Thanks to Claudio, Filu, and Diego for sharing the experience. And of course thanks to Matteo Gambaro and Alessandro Cariga for an exceptional route.

- Marcello Bombardi, Pont-Saint-Martin, Aosta, Italy