La Fenice - Rocca dei Campanili
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On the "most beautiful limestone in the Ligurian Alps", ie, on the splendid south face o Rocca dei Campanili del Mongioie, Matteo Gambaro and Alessandro Cariga established La Fenice from the ground-up.
The second pitch in particular, according to Gambaro, "is perhaps the most beautiful thing I have ever bolted," and with its mandatory 7c climbing and an overall grade of 8c, it was obviously a gem, and a challenge, reserved for a select few.
Take the A6 Savona-Torino, exit at Ceva and continue for Garessio-Ormea to reach Ponte di Nava. Leave the main road SS28 at this point and drive up the Alta Valle Tanaro to Viozene and park here.
AccessTake the path from the church to Rifugio Mongioie. After 40 minutes reach this mountain hut and continue across the meadows to reach the bse of the wall (1.30 hours from the car). The route starts to the right of Nonno sprint, name written at the base.
ItineraryP1: 8a, 38m 7c oblig. 11 spitbolts
P2: 8c, 35m 7c oblig. 12 bolts.
P3: 7a+, 30m 6c oblig 9 bolts.
P4: 6b+, 25m 7 bolts (after 3 bolts, shared with Due bottoni nel pozzo)
P5: 6b+, 25m 8 bolts
Abseil from the summit: abseil down Trial and Due bottoni nel pozzo.
It is possible to rappel the route itself, but pay close attention to the significant overhang of Pitch 1 (L1) and Pitch 2 (L2). Evaluate whether a full 60m rappel from the P2 anchor will reach the ground, as it is completely in the void. Alternatively, rappel to the P1 anchor, but this will require clipping into the bolts on the pitch.
Rifugio Mongioie www.rifugio-mongioie.com
Holiday Apartments Villa Tanaro B&B (Ormea, Frazione Cantarana) www.villatanaro.com
Hotel / Restaurant La Tramontana (Viozene) www.albergolatramontana.com
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