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Due bottoni nel pozzo - Rocca dei Campanili

Italy>Piedmont>Western Alps>Ligurian Alps>Rocca dei Campanili

Mirko Rizzo

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Rocca dei Campanili, Mongioie: 1. Trial (6b, 180m). 2. Due bottoni nel pozzo (7b, 160m). 3. Afa (6b+, 170m).

Rizzo

Beauty

First ascent

P1 & P2 A. Pozzi & co, rebolted, cleaned and completed by Marco Valente & Christian Rizzo, 08/2011.

Mirko Rizzo

Orientation

South

Length

160m

Height

2000m

Difficulty

7b, S1/ II

Obligatory difficulty

6b+

Published on

01/06/2012

Route

The first two pitches are demanding although somewhat sweeter thanks to the excellent bolting. The rock on pitches 2, 3 and 5 is outstanding, the best Rocca dei Campanili can offer!

Getting there

Take the A6 Savona-Torino, exit at Ceva and continue for Garessio-Ormea to reach Ponte di Nava. Leave the main road SS28 at this point and drive up the Alta Valle Tanaro to Viozene and park here.

Access

Take the path from the church to Rifugio Mongioie. After 40 minutes reach this mountain hut and continue across the meadows to reach the bse of the wall (1.30 hours from the car). The route starts to the right of Nonno sprint, name written at the base.

Itinerary

P1: 6c
P2: 7b (?)
P3: 6b+
P4: 6a
P5: 6b

Descent

Abseil 1: down the route to reach the third belay (50m)
Abseil 2: straight down to a independant belay on the lip of the roof (50m)
Abseil3: down the void to reach the ground (50m)

Gear

Entirely protected by 10mm bolts. The gear for Afa and Due Bottoni was sponsored by Versante Sud Edizioni and Rifugio Mongioie. Take two 55m ropes, 12 quickdraws.

Notes

Rifugio Mongioie www.rifugio-mongioie.com
Holiday Apartments Villa Tanaro B&B (Ormea, Frazione Cantarana) www.villatanaro.com
Hotel / Restaurant La Tramontana (Viozene) www.albergolatramontana.com