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Trial - Rocca dei Campanili

Italy>Piedmont>Western Alps>Ligurian Alps>Rocca dei Campanili

Mirko Rizzo

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Rocca dei Campanili, Mongioie

Rizzo

Beauty

First ascent

Marco Valente, Christian Rizzo, 08/2010

Mirko Rizzo

Orientation

South

Length

180m

Height

2000m

Difficulty

6b S1/ II

Obligatory difficulty

Route

Beautiful rock climb in a superb setting on Rocca dei Campanili which climbs through a section of the wall which has not yet been developed. In view of its relatively low grade and the excellent pro, Trial is already a classic "easy" outing.

Getting there

Take the A6 Savona-Torino, exit at Ceva and continue for Garessio-Ormea to reach Ponte di Nava. Leave the main road SS28 at this point and drive up the Alta Valle Tanaro to Viozene and park here.

Access

Take the path from the church to Rifugio Mongioie. After 40 minutes reach this mountain hut and continue across the meadows to reach the bse of the wall (1.30 hours from the car). The route starts to the right of Nonno sprint, name written at the base.

Itinerary

P1: 6a+
P2: 6b
P3: 6a
P4: 6a
P5: 6a
Note: halfway up P4 you can exit right, up "2 bottoni"

Descent

Abseil 1: down the route, rightwards towards 2 bottoni to reach an independant abseil chain (45m)
Abseil 2: straight down 2 bottoni to reach its second belay on the lip of the roof (45m)
Abseil 3: down the void to reach the ground (50m)

Gear

Entirely protected by 10mm bolts. Take two 55m ropes, 12 quickdraws.

Notes

Rifugio Mongioie www.rifugio-mongioie.com
Holiday Apartments Villa Tanaro B&B (Ormea, Frazione Cantarana) www.villatanaro.com
Hotel / Restaurant La Tramontana (Viozene) www.albergolatramontana.com