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Magnus Midtbø climbing Tom e Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole above Lake Garda, Italy
Photo by Michael Meisl
Heinz Mariacher climbing his Super Swing at the crag Swing Area, Arco, 1983
Photo by archivio Heinz Mariacher

Magnus Midtbø at Arco climbs Heinz Mariacher 80's sketchy slabs

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The video of Magnus Midtbø tackling two ‘legendary' slabs at Arco first ascended by Heinz Mariacher: Super Swing (1983) at Swing Area and Tom e Jerry (1984) at Spiaggia delle Lucertole immediately above Lake Garda.

Magnus Midtbø is one of the strongest climbers of his generation, amply demonstrated by his 8c+ onsight in 2013 at Rodellar in Spain and the various 9a+ redpoints to his name. The Norwegian however admits he’s not the best at slab climbing, and kudos goes to him therefore for putting his neck on the line and trying something that doesn’t play to his strengths on grades that, at least on paper, are clearly well below his personal best.

The 31-year-old climber travelled to Arco to try two historic slabs put up by Heinz Mariacher: legendary Super Swing 7b+ at Swing Area and the equally famous Tom e Jerry 7c at Spiaggia delle Lucertole. The "experiment" is interesting, especially if one considers the fact that Mariacher (who belayed Midtbø on his attempts) had freed them a few years before the Norwegian was born, namely in 1983 and 1984 respectively. The clip also includes the 7a approach Sentierissimo that looks like it shut down Midtbø completely...



Link: FB Magnus MidtboeSCARPA, www.heinzmariacher.com

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