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Arco rock climbing: Mescalito on Colodri, the classic multi pitch climb by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori
19/10/2018 - Climbing
Arco rock climbing: Mescalito on Colodri, the classic multi pitch climb by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori
The route topo of Mescalito up Rupe Secca on Monte Colodri in Arco, the multi-pitch rock climb first ascended in 1982 by Renato Bernard and Renzo Vettori and widely considered a masterpiece of the Sarca Valley. By Carlo Cosi, mountain guide.
Aiguille d'Argentiere: new climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
10/10/2018 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Argentiere: new climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
Slovak mountaineers Ondrej Húserka and Ján Smoleň have established two new rock climbs on Aiguille d’Argentière in the Mont Blanc massif: Crystal route up Contreforts Charlet-Straton and In memory of Červienka up Plateau du Jardin.
El Capitan Freerider: Alexander Huber Yosemite masterpiece celebrates 20th anniversary
05/10/2018 - Interviews
El Capitan Freerider: Alexander Huber Yosemite masterpiece celebrates 20th anniversary
Interview with German climber Alexander Huber 20 years after the first free ascent of Freerider, the famous big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
03/10/2018 - Alpinism
Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
On Reissend Nollen in Switzerland’s Wendenstöcke Matteo Della Bordella, accompanied by Silvan Schüpbach, has made the first free ascent of 'Polenta con farina degli altri', a multi-pitch alpine climb that was started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck. Della Bordella completed the route with Dimitri Anghileri and Paolo Spreafico.
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
25/09/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites rock climbing: new outing above Val Gardena in Geisler group
This summer the South Tyrolean alpinists Aaron Moroder and Matteo Vinatzer completed Nuvole Bianche, a rock climb on Sas dla Porta to the east of Sas Rigais in the Geisler group, Dolomites.
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24/09/2018 - Alpinism
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.
Latok I. The Aleš Česen interview
06/09/2018 - Interviews
Latok I. The Aleš Česen interview
Interview with Slovenian alpinist Aleš Česen after the ascent, carried out with Luka Stražar and Tom Livingstone, of Latok I via the north and south face. The three were only the second team to reach the summit of the 7,145m high mountain in Pakistan’s Karakorum after the 1979 first ascent.
Atlantide at Baunei, new plaisir rock climb in Sardinia
03/09/2018 - Climbing
Atlantide at Baunei, new plaisir rock climb in Sardinia
Up the Sa Costa ‘e Aidu rock face at Baunei in Sardinia, Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu have made the first ascent of Atlantide, 400 meters of plaisir climbing with difficulties up to 6a+.
Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal
24/08/2018 - Alpinism
Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák climb new route up Kyajo Ri in Nepal
Climbing in alpine style from 25 to 28 May 2018, the Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of Lapse of Reason, a new route up Kyajo Ri (6186 m) in Nepal.
Agrodolce, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
12/08/2018 - Climbing
Agrodolce, new rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
On Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites Giorgio Pirovano, Nicola Castagna and Sara Ongari established Agrodolce, a new 6-pitch rock climb first ascended ground-up, onsight, with bolts only at the belays and difficulties up to grade VII.
Stigmata added to Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
06/08/2018 - Alpinism
Stigmata added to Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
Over a four-day period in August 2016 Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent, ground-up, of Stigmata, a multi-pitch rock climb up Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites freed by the duo on 17/07/2017 with difficulties up to X-.
Breiflogtinden East Face first ascent on Norway's Lofoten islands
03/08/2018 - Climbing
Breiflogtinden East Face first ascent on Norway's Lofoten islands
Russian climbers Dmitrii Panov, Andrey Panov and Anar Demirov have completed their Arctic Odyssey, probably the first new climb up the East Face of Breiflogtinden on the Lofoten Islands in Norway.
Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN
02/08/2018 - Alpinism
Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN
Second episode dedicated to Espace Grivel, or to the first 200 years of the history of Grivel and alpinism.
Antelao, Dolomites: Enrico Paganin makes solo first ascent of Via Mamabi
15/07/2018 - Alpinism
Antelao, Dolomites: Enrico Paganin makes solo first ascent of Via Mamabi
Climbing alone on Saturday 30 June 2018, Enrico Paganin made what is likely to be a first ascent up the SW Face of Antelao in the Dolomites. An 'exploratory' climb that ‘doesn’t concentrate on the grade' and which, via a hidden series of diagonal ledges, enters into the heart of...
Slackline between two icefalls walked by Lukas Irmler & Pablo Signoret
13/07/2018 - Alpinism
Slackline between two icefalls walked by Lukas Irmler & Pablo Signoret
The video of Lukas Irmler and Pablo Signoret walking across a highline rigged between two icefalls in France.
El Ojo Critico in Ordesa repeated by James Pearson
10/07/2018 - Alpinism
El Ojo Critico in Ordesa repeated by James Pearson
British rock climber James Pearson reports about his repeat of El Ojo Critico, the difficult multi-pitch trad climb ascended in Spain’s Ordesa National Park by Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegi in 2007 and repeated previously only by Unai Mendia and Iker Madoz. Belayed by Caroline Ciavaldini, Pearson managed to onsight...

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