1208 News found

Cleaning a sport climb with dubious lower-offs, or retreating from a route with questionable protection, can sometimes be dangerous. UIAA mountain guide Jan Schneider from Germany illustrates a technique using a Prusik loop that increases safety while retrieving climbing gear.

From 3 to 6 April 2026, French alpinists Pierre Girot, Kilian Moni, Hugo Peruzzo and Arthur Poindefert established 'Jorassique Pâques' on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif. Graded ED+ M7 A3, the 1100-metre route climbs to Pointe Whymper on the north face. Poindefert reports.

On 8 April 2026, on the northwest face of Punte di Campiglio in the Brenta Dolomites, Emanuele Andreozzi, Ruggero Samaden and Silvestro Franchini established the mixed route 'Mamma Anna' (300m, WI5, M6). Franchini reports.

From 25 to 26 February 2026 South Tyrolean mountain guide Titus Prinoth repeated '10 ani do' on Punta Maffei on Plattkofel / Sassopiatto in the Langkofel / Sassolungo Group (Dolomites). This represents the first repeat, first free ascent, first winter ascent and first solo ascent of the climb established in...

From 22 January to 2 March 2026 Trevor Anthes, Harry Kinnard and Myles Moser made the first ascent of 'Paradigm Shift' on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine in the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia. Graded VII, 5.12+ A2, the 1200m route was established over 41...

On the south face of the Petites Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif, Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso and Giacomo Mauri opened the mixed climb 'Mutante' (M8, 6c, AI4+, 520m) on 19 and 20 March 2026

On 03 March 2026 Swiss mountaineer Yannick Glatthard made the rope solo first ascent of 'Get the Vibe' (WI5, M8, 125m) on Chlynen Tällistock in the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland. Glatthard flew to and from the mixed climb by paraglider.

From 6-8 March 2026 Tasio Martín and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll made the first free ascent of 'Pilar Este' on Cerro Chaltén (Fitz Roy) in Patagonia. The 1200m route was first ascended 50 years ago, in 1976 by Casimiro Ferrari and Vittorio Meles as part of a Ragni di Lecco expedition.

Interview with French climber Erwan Legrand who on 11 February 2026 made the coveted first ascent of 'Le Bombé Bleu' at Buoux, France. The 17-year-old has suggest 9b for the legendary line bolted in 1991 by Marc Le Menestrel and attempted by many of the best climbers in the world...

From 8 - 10 March 2026 Silvan Schüpbach, Olivier Kolly, Filippo Sala made the first ascent of 'Zébu' (M8+, 70°, 1100m) on the Northwest Face of Klein Fiescherhorn (Ochs) in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. The mixed climb shares the same start as the only other route on the face,...

On 7 March 2026 Radoslav Groh from the Czech Republic and Juraj Koreň from Slovakia made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Kaiser Direct' (500m, M7) up the south face of the Grossglockner, at 3798m the highest mountain in Austria. Koreň reports.

Interview with the Italian alpinist Stefano Ragazzo, who from 21 February to 7 March made the first solo ascent of 'Riders on the Storm' on the Central Tower of Paine in the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia. This legendary 1300m big wall was first ascended in 1991 by Kurt...

From 2-3 March 2026 French alpinists Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni and Étienne Poteaux made the first ascent of 'Y’a comme un pecker dans la soupe' (420m, M8/A2) on the north face of Aiguille Orientale du Soreiller in the Écrins massif.

Silvestro Franchini recounts the first ascent of 'La via che non c'è' (M5/5+, 400m) on the northwest face of Cima Brenta in the Brenta Dolomites. Established with his brother Tomas Franchini on 02/06/2012, it is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful mixed climbs in the entire...

On Cerro Walwalun in the Cochamó Valley, Chile, the international team composed of Italy's Mirco Grasso and Slovenia's Jernej Kruder opened and subsequently freed 'Tarock', a big wall climb with difficulties up to 7c.

On 13/01/2026, Tine Cuder, Filip Princi and Miloš Milanović made the first ascent of 'Bratstvo v cepinih', a new mixed climb in the Loška Koritnica valley in the Triglav National Park in the Julian Alps of Slovenia.