Four big new Norway mixed climbs by Ines Papert & co

Making the most of what she described as "conditions of the century," German alpinist Ines Papert established four new mixed climbs in Norway between the end of January and the start of February 2026. According to Papert, "each one is a serious alpine undertaking with long, committing descents in wild Norwegian terrain." Every ascent began in darkness and continued well into the night, and all four were climbed clean and free.

Papert kicked off the action on 30 January by establishing Iskafe on Kaffiberget near Eikesdal. The 350‑meter line goes free at M5, WI6/6+, boasts a 20‑meter free‑standing pillar, and was climbed with Dåg Jørund Vik and Odd T. Sæbø. Papert had first noticed the line during a visit in 2012, but conditions back then were not safe enough.

The trio remained in the area, and on 1 February they made the first ascent of another line that Papert had spotted 14 years earlier – this time on the West Face of Middagshaugen. Orions Belte (M4+, WI5) is, in Papert's words, "a real alpine adventure. From sea to top approximately 1000 m of moderate but super fun climbing. Only one steeper ice pitch, and mostly we climbed on running belays."

Papert then ventured into the remote Litldalen valley, where on 11 February she teamed up with Eivind Hugaas and Torje Stenkjær to tackle the northwest face of Gjøla. The result, Gjølatappen, is an intimidating 350‑meter line at M8, WI6, which Papert ranks as "for sure one of my TOP 10" first ascents. Success came on the second attempt, after a first try a few days earlier.

She explained: "Gjølatappen was the most striking of them all. Climbing through hanging icicles high above the valley felt surreal. Again and again, hidden cracks revealed themselves behind the ice – perfect for protection. The realisation that there was almost always a secure placement concealed behind the frozen curtains left my Norwegian partners genuinely surprised. It took a second attempt to finally achieve a completely free ascent on this line – a reminder that perseverance is often part of establishing something new."

To cap things off, on 15 February Papert and Stenkjær climbed the south face of Hovsnebba above Sunndalsøra via Fleeting Glory. At 750 meters in height, this is another monster outing, graded an impressive M7+, WI6+.

Writing after her trip, Papert reflected: "None of this would have been possible without the incredible support of local climbers. Together, we spent days exploring the area with binoculars and maps, studying faces and optional descents, tracing ice lines, imagining possibilities. Sunndalen revealed itself as a hidden paradise – quiet, dramatic, full of untouched potential. Years of experience have trained my eyes to immediately recognise opportunity in a wall – to see lines where others might only see chaos. But seeing potential is one thing. Finding the courage to actually try is another."

Summary of first ascents
Iskafe – 350m, M5, WI6/6+
Kaffiberget, Eikesdal
Dåg Jørund Vik, Odd T. Sæbø, Ines Papert – 30/01/2026

Orion’s Belte – 1000m, M4+, WI5
Middagshaugen West Face, Eikesdal
Dåg Jørund Vik, Odd T. Sæbø, Ines Papert – 01/02/2026

Gjølatappen – 350m, M8, WI6
Gjøla Northwest Face, Litldalen, Sunndalsøra
Eivind Hugaas, Torje Stenkjær, Ines Papert - 11/02/2026

Fleeting Glory – 750m, M7+, WI6+
Hovsnebba South Face, Sunndalsøra
Ines Papert, Torje Stenkjær - 15/02/2026

Where to fly: Trondheim, Molde or Oslo
Where to stay: Sunndalsfjord Cottages in Fredsvik (near Sunndalsøra)
Recommended Gear: 1 set of Totem Cams, plus some extra smaller ones, 10 ice screws (incl. 7cm), 1 set of nuts, 2 peckers, 2 pegs, alpine quick draws, single rope 60m, tagline 60m