Home page Planetmountain.com
The line of 'How not to' (M5, 250m) on the north face of Grytetippen, Senja island, Norway, first ascended by Fay Manners and Freja Shannon in March 2023
Photo by Fay Manners / Freja Shannon
Making the first ascent of 'How not to' (M5, 250m) on the north face of Grytetippen, Senja island, Norway (Fay Manners, Freja Shannon 03/2023)
Photo by Fay Manners / Freja Shannon
Freja Shannon establishing 'How not to' (M5, 250m) on the north face of Grytetippen, Senja island, Norway (Fay Manners, Freja Shannon 03/2023)
Photo by Fay Manners
Fay Manners and Freja Shannon on Senja island, Norway, March 2023
Photo by Fay Manners archive

Fay Manners, Freja Shannon discover 'How not to' on Senja in Norway

by

Alpinists Fay Manners and Freja Shannon have made the first ascent of 'How not to' (M5, 250m) on the north face of Grytetippen on the island of Senja in Norway.

Fay Manners and Freja Shannon have made the first ascent of How not to on the north face of Grytetippen on the island of Senja in Norway. The bold 250m M5 follows a series of snow gullies, iced corners and steep caves. The pair was forced to retreat just beneath the summit due to unfrozen moss and turf that had melted in the afternoon sun. The route was climbed with trad gear and the only gear left in-situ was at the belays used for the abseils. While the mountain’s south face is a relatively popular ski touring peak, this is likely to be the first technical winter climb on the steep north face.

Writing to planetmountain.com, Manners explained "We originally tried something on the east face but found the climbing was rock slabs covered in powder, there weren’t any inspiring lines in condition. So we switched our attention to the north face to try something that had a more continuous line.

We named the route "How not to" because of our experience in learning how to find and put up a new winter mixed route in Norway. With harsh conditions ranging from snow storms one minute to -19 another, climbing a new route in Senja certainly wasn’t easy! 

When we tried to climb the east face we were covered in spindrift, trying to onsight a route with cracks covered in snow. It was impossible to see each other let alone the possible protection above! On our attempt of the North face we focused on selecting a good weather day so that we had more of a chance of success!

Finding a line to climb is an art form in itself. We really had to focus on not looking for the hardest line on this unfamiliar mountain but instead look for the line of least resistance! Our main learning was to not to have a preempted idea about where to go on the mountain, but to go where the climbing takes you."

Writing to planetmountain.com, Shannon said “What we learned during this trip was what made it so much more than just climbing. The confidence gained in ourselves and with each other is invaluable and we can't wait to apply this to our future climbing objectives. Once again, persevere always wins!”

Manners thanks: The North Face, Petzl, Totem, SunGod
Shannon thanks: Mountain Equipment, Petzl, SunGod, Moonvalley, FatMap

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Watch Fay Manners, Michelle Dvorak climb Denali's Cassin Ridge in Alaska
15.10.2022
Watch Fay Manners, Michelle Dvorak climb Denali's Cassin Ridge in Alaska
Video: Fay Manners and Michelle Dvorak climbing Bacon and Eggs on Mini-Mini-Moonflower and the Cassin Ridge on Denali in Alaska.
Senja Island Ulvetanna North Ridge in Norway climbed by Simon Richardson, Mark Robson
06.05.2022
Senja Island Ulvetanna North Ridge in Norway climbed by Simon Richardson, Mark Robson
Simon Richardson reports about the first ascent of the North Ridge of Ulvetanna on Senja Island in Norway, climbed on 23 April 2022 with Mark Robson. This is possibly only the second ascent of the mountain.
Line van den Berg and Fay Manners make first female ascent of  Phantom Direct on Grandes Jorasses
10.02.2022
Line van den Berg and Fay Manners make first female ascent of Phantom Direct on Grandes Jorasses
On the 26th of January 2022 Line van den Berg from the Netherlands and Fay Manners from Great Britain have made the first female ascent of 'Phantom Direct', also referred to as 'Via in memoria di Gianni Comino', established in 1985 on the south face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Giancarlo Grassi, Renzo Luzi and Mauro Rossi.
Senja Island new ice climbs in Norway by Papert, Hauser and Senf
21.04.2014
Senja Island new ice climbs in Norway by Papert, Hauser and Senf
In February 2014 Ines Papert, Rudi Hauser Thomas Senf made three first ascents in Norway: Finnmonster (A2+, WI6 400m) on Senja Island, Eagles Paradise (8/IIIV WI5 500m) up Roalden and Crazy Maze (8+/IX WI4+ 600m) up Breitinden.
Ines Papert sends Senja ice climb in Norway
23.02.2013
Ines Papert sends Senja ice climb in Norway
On Norway's Senja island Ines Papert has made the first ascent of Finnmannen (M9+ WI7, 400m) together with Bent Vidar Eilertsen.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Prodotti

EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer