Yannick Glatthard makes fly & climb first ascent on Tällistock in Switzerland

In February, during a flyover when the thermals were starting to kick in, I spotted this small but beautiful icefall. I knew immediately that I absolutely had to climb it. I asked a few friends who fly and climb, but no one was really motivated – the skiing was just too good.

So I went alone, looking forward to a day of rope solo climbing. I packed my gear and took the cable car up to the Planplatten at 2200m, where I got ready to launch around midday. The flight isn't particularly difficult when the thermals are good. An additional challenge was not violating the wildlife protection code, which extends up to 2000m.

I launched and quickly reached 260 m, then crossed the valley to the Tällistock, where I could gain even more altitude on the impressive south face. The day was almost too good for such a flight – but ideal for me, because it meant I could land shortly after takeoff and spend as much time as possible on the wall.

The route is located on the north side of the Chlynen Tällistock at about 2200m. After about 30 minutes, I landed on a flat plateau slightly above the exit, as I wasn't comfortable landing alone on the 35° north-facing slope with old snow at the start.

After a quick change of setup, I walked to where I suspected the line exited. I had a drill with me because the rock in this area is at times extremely compact. I placed one bolt and abseiled 50m, placed another, and abseiled again. Then I set up a belay with pegs and a thread to make a final abseil.

Then I climbed back up. The ice was extremely beautiful; the second pitch was a bit tricky due to the gritty snow cover but improved higher up. The third pitch – the heart of the route – was fantastic: apart from one bolt and a pecker, the entire pitch could be protected with threads. The final pitch led through a somewhat intimidating corner and could be fully protected with cams.

During the ascent, I led rope solo. Occasionally I clipped into my ice axe or a skyhook to hammer in or thread protection before continuing. As I seconded the climb, I freed each pitch. Not the cleanest style, but considering these difficulties, it worked well for me.

Around 4:00 pm, I reached my paraglider again, overjoyed. It was a mild day, and on the upper part I could even climb without gloves, which made the whole thing feel almost pleasant.

This winter I had cobbled together short skis (60cm) with crampon bindings and baskets to be able to launch better with mountain boots. I had them with me that day as well. Still, with downdrafts, breakable crust, and the heavy backpack, getting airborne again was a real challenge. After spending about an hour searching for a suitable launch spot and after 6–7 aborted attempts, I finally mastered this last big challenge and was able to fly back home – with a landing right in my garden at Innertkirchen.

An experience that means a great deal to me.

- Yannick Glatthard, Innertkirchen, Switzerland