Noah Wheeler repeats Burden of Dreams in Finland

There will come a time when repeating Burden of Dreams is no longer considered newsworthy – or rather, when it is seen as merely a stepping stone to even greater climbs. That time is by no means here yet, and a decade after its first ascent, a repeat of the world's first 9A boulder problem remains absolutely cutting-edge

The most recent send of Nalle Hukkataival's 2016 masterpiece at Lappnor in Finland comes at the hands of Noah Wheeler, the 23-year-old American climber who in doing so has now climbed his third 9A, after sending two tespieces at Red Rocks: Return of the Sleepwalker in December 2024 and Shaolin in March 2025.

Wheeler sent BOD on his second trip to northern Europe, after a fortnight last October was basically washed out leaving only 3 days to try the famous crimps. Wheeler was more lucky on his second visit and topped out after a staggeringly fast 7 sessions in total. His successful send on the 14th of May was made under pressure - two session prior he had linked the moves with disarming ease, but inadvertently dabbed the crashpad with his foot, and his flight back home was booked for 6:00 a.m. the next morning leaving little time to make amends.

Wheeler commented "Some moments are so surreal that they feel unfinished even after they’ve happened." adding "Really had to push my headspace to find sufficient presence for the send." Interestingly, unlike some of his predecessors, Wheeler had never trained on a replica beforehand. Perhaps even more telling of his talent is the fact that, in mid‑March he flashed the classic 8B problem Vecchio Leone at Brione, Switzerland, just two months after fully rupturing the A2 pulley in his left ring finger.

 

 

 

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