Abbronzatissima added to Monte Fop (Dolomites) by Federico Dell’Antone, Thomas Gianola

Around mid‑June, Fefo (Federico Dell'Antone) called to ask if I wanted to go open a route in Val Franzedaz. He explained where he had in mind, and I immediately understood.

Last autumn, when I repeated Federico and Matteo Dagai's beautiful route Arcoboan, I had also noticed a shield of lovely, compact slabs on the left. So of course I said yes straight away. The next day we set off on our e-bikes for Val Franzedaz. From where we left the bikes, the approach was so easy that I decided to hike up in sandals.

Given how compact the slabs were and the type of rock, we decided to use bolts systematically. The rock is a very compact limestone – less weathered than on the south face of the Marmolada or in the upper part of the valley. It offered extremely technical climbing, more reminiscent of the Rätikon than the classic Dolomites. Not the kind of rock that accepts many pegs or trad pro.

We managed to open a first entry pitch – less ugly than it had looked – and then two technical slab pitches. Fede started the fourth pitch, but by then we had run out of bolts and his arms were also shot, so we bailed.

A week later, I agreed to go climbing with Fede. It was a scorching day, with the freezing level at 5,200 metres; even the newspapers were talking about record heat. I was considering climbing on the northwest face of Civetta, but Fefo insisted: "Come on, let's go finish the route! A bit of sun will do us good. We'll get a tan!"

We went back. During the first pitches it was very hot, but then a little breeze and some clouds made things more bearable. Fede finished the fourth pitch. Then I took over for the fifth. We debated at length about where to climb the final small overhang; in the end we chose a line that turned out to be much more hold‑poor than expected. After a few falls, I still managed to get through it and reach the top. At least the rock was beautiful!

A few weeks later we returned with two friends, Silvia Loreggian and Luca Ducoli, to free the route. I was still tired from a day on the Marmolada, but with Fede motivating me I managed to solve the boulder on the last pitch. And yes, we got tanned – Abbronzatissima!

– Thomas Gianola, Alleghe