Alexander Huber frees Feuersalamander on Gösslerwand in Austria

Twenty years ago, my brother Thomas and I established and freed Via Gabrielli on Gösslerwand close to lake Grundlsee in Austria. Originally though we had a different line in mind, but while trying to climb it free we ran into problems. The limestone on this wall can be as smooth as the granite on El Capitan, and in the end we opted for the easier line.

The original line has since lain dormant, and it was only last winter that I turned my attention to this old project. And lo and behold, I was able to free the smooth sections time and again by adding some some small variations and detours. Feuersalamander has ten pitches, five of which are 8a and above, with the crux checking in at 8b. Much of the route needs protecting with cams and wires; in total, there are 15 bolts along the pitches.

This is now only the second route on Gösslerwand. Brillant, delicate climbing from start to finish. Simply fantastic!

- Alexander Huber, Bavaria