Simon Gietl & Alexander Huber add Appassionata to Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites

On 13 and 14 July 2024, Alexander Huber and Simon Gietl added a new line to Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass dla Crusc in the Dolomites. According to the climbers, their Appassionata is to be considered a direct start to Loss lei heb schun, the route established in 2003 by Renato Botte and Helmut Gargitter. Appassionata follows an obvious section through the overhanging wall that had remained untouched until now – one of the last obvious lines in this sector of the face.

Years earlier, Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder had already attempted this line. After a careful inspection by abseil, however, they had concluded that an ascent without bolts was unrealistic for them. The rock on this part of the wall appeared too smooth, too devoid of holds – free climbing while renouncing bolts seemed, from their perspective at the time, simply impossible. Out of respect for the rock and in line with their ethics, they therefore decided to leave the project for future generations.

Gietl and Huber accepted the challenge with great determination. The pair managed to open the line ground-up, using only nuts, friends, and pegs. No bolts were added. The direct variant adds 3.5 pitches, was forged using a mix of free and aid climbing, and follows a logical line through the compact, overhanging rock. In the upper section in joins the original 2003 route.

A first attempt to free Appassionata was cut short on 15 August 2024 when Gietl injured his finger. In early August 2025, the two set out for a new attempt. Gietl was initially joined by Andrea Oberbacher, with whom he worked the key pitch. A week later, Gietl and Huber returned to the mountain together, and Gietl managed to free climb from the crux pitch to the top. The goal of the two alpinists, however, was to free the entire route together. They returned on 25 August to make the first complete free ascent.

"I had had this line in mind for a long time. It seemed both challenging and elegant. Alex was the ideal partner for this project." stated Gietl, adding "It pleased us particularly that Heli and Pauli congratulated us on our climb – and shared with us their joy at the realisation of this old idea."

According to the Gietl and Huber, Appassionata is to be considered "more than a new route – it symbolises a respectful, tradition-conscious approach to climbing. A line that connects generations of climbers through shared values and a passion for a pure style of climbing."