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‘Mission Impossible’ in Valsavarenche (Italy) restored and repeated after 20 years by Niccolò Bruni, Francesco Civra Dano
21/02/2025 - Alpinism
‘Mission Impossible’ in Valsavarenche (Italy) restored and repeated after 20 years by Niccolò Bruni, Francesco Civra Dano
In Valsavarenche, Cogne, Italy, the mixed climb 'Mission Impossible' was re-equipped by Niccolò Bruni and Francesco Civra Dano. The two mountain guides then repeated the route, considered an masterpiece put up by Mauro "Bubu" Bole in 2001 and regarded at the time as one of the most beautiful and challenging...
‘Kairos’ multipitch added to Taghia (Morocco) by Davide Gaeta, Gabriele Gorobey, Guido De Sabbata
18/02/2025 - Alpinism
‘Kairos’ multipitch added to Taghia (Morocco) by Davide Gaeta, Gabriele Gorobey, Guido De Sabbata
Gabriele Gorobey reports about the March 2023 first ascent, with Davide Gaeta and Guido De Sabbata, of Kairos (8a+, 230m), a new multi-pitch route on Paroi de la Cascade in Taghia, Morocco.
Rysy 'Direttissima' in High Tatras climbed free by Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel, Tomek Klimcza
14/02/2025 - Alpinism
Rysy 'Direttissima' in High Tatras climbed free by Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel, Tomek Klimcza
From 8-10 February 2025, the team of Polish climbers consisting of Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel and Tomek Klimczak made the first free ascent of the classic 'Direttissima' on the east face of Rysy in the High Tatras, Slovakia. The 13-pitch, 450m mixed climb is now graded VII M8+ and was...
Hannes Puman interview after 'The Nose' free via Schnaz Variation
13/02/2025 - Interviews
Hannes Puman interview after 'The Nose' free via Schnaz Variation
Interview with Swedish climber Hannes Puman after his free ascent of 'The Nose' on El Capitan in Yosemite via what is known as the Schnaz Variation.
Seb Berthe repeats legendary 'Dawn Wall' on El Capitan
07/02/2025 - Climbing
Seb Berthe repeats legendary 'Dawn Wall' on El Capitan
Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe has made the fourth free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. First climbed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2015, it was repeated by Adam Ondra in 2016 and is known as the most difficult big wall climb in the...
Yet another new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
03/02/2025 - Alpinism
Yet another new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
On 22 January 2025, in Valle di Enghe above Sappada in NE Italy, the two InMont mountain guides Gianni Dorigo and Samuel Straulino established the new mixed climb 'L’Orco non va mai in vacanza' (The Ogre Never Goes on Holiday). Below is Dorigo’s report.
Surprising new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
29/01/2025 - Alpinism
Surprising new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
In Valle di Enghe, close to Sappada in NE Italy, Christian Casanova, Marco Ronchi and Lorenzo Zanella have established the mixed climb 'I 3 Orchi'. Casanova reports.
In Patagonia new climbs on Aguja Mermoz & Paine North Tower by Tasio Martin, Ibon Mendia
27/01/2025 - Climbing
In Patagonia new climbs on Aguja Mermoz & Paine North Tower by Tasio Martin, Ibon Mendia
Basque mountaineers Tasio Martin and Ibon Mendia have established two new lines in Patagonia this season: Erresistentziara Kondenatuak on Torre Norte del Paine and 'Dardara' on Aguja Mermoz. Martin reports.
New rock climbs in Morocco by Fay Manners, Daniel Coquoz
22/01/2025 - Climbing
New rock climbs in Morocco by Fay Manners, Daniel Coquoz
British rock climber Fay Manners reports about a climbing trip to Morocco towards the end of last year which resulted in the first ascents of three new trad climbs together with
Difficult new mixed climb in Switzerland's Gondoschlucht
21/01/2025 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb in Switzerland's Gondoschlucht
Tommaso Lamantia and Luca Moroni have made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Gli Artigli di Dade' in the Gondoschlucht / Gole di Gondo at Gabi, Switzerland. The report by Lamantia and Moroni.
New climb on Aguja Val Biois in Patagonia by Alessandro Baù, Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso
14/01/2025 - Alpinism
New climb on Aguja Val Biois in Patagonia by Alessandro Baù, Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso
On the east face of Aguja Val Biois in the Fitz Roy massif of Patagonia the Italian climbers Alessandro Baù, Matteo Della Bordella and Mirco Grasso have made the first ascent of '¿Quién sigue?' (450m, 7a, A1).
Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety
30/12/2024 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety
Maurizio Oviglia shares the latest news and discusses the curent safety situation of sport crags in Sardinia. This first chapter is dedicated to the wild southwest coast and the crags at Gonnesa, Iglesias, Buggerru and Masua.
'Cadeau de Noël' established on Aiguille du Toula (Mont Blanc) by Niccolò Bruni, Federica Furia
28/12/2024 - Alpinism
'Cadeau de Noël' established on Aiguille du Toula (Mont Blanc) by Niccolò Bruni, Federica Furia
On 25/12/2024 Niccolò Bruni and Federica Furia made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Cadeau de Noël' on Aiguille de Toule (3534m) in the Mont Blanc massif.
Simon Gietl, Manuel Oberarzbacher establish 'Hybrid' mixed climb on Sella, Dolomites
25/12/2024 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Manuel Oberarzbacher establish 'Hybrid' mixed climb on Sella, Dolomites
On 12 December 2024, the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Gietl and Manuel Oberarzbacher completed the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Hybrid' on Mur de Pisciadù in the Sella group of the Dolomites, Italy.
Two new rock climbs in Fanis (Dolomites) by Simon Kehrer, Marta Willeit, Hubert Eisendle
23/12/2024 - Climbing
Two new rock climbs in Fanis (Dolomites) by Simon Kehrer, Marta Willeit, Hubert Eisendle
In November, South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Kehrer made the first ascent of two new multipitch climbs in the Fanes group of the Dolomites, Italy: 'Lastun de Mareo' on Muntejela de Senes / Monte Sella di Sennes with Marta Willeit and 'Via dla Surité' on Piz Parom with Hubert Eisendle.
Legendary Alexander Huber frees 'Mythos' (8c+) at Barmsteine
19/12/2024 - Interviews
Legendary Alexander Huber frees 'Mythos' (8c+) at Barmsteine
Interview with 55-year-old German climber Alexander Huber after the first ascent of 'Mythos' (8c+) at Barmsteine in the Berchtesgadener Alps. The redpoint follows the first ascent of the 8b multipitch 'Überleben' (8b) at Brendelberg in July 2024 and after undergoing brain surgery at the start of the year.

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