Baila Morena added to Corno del Framont in Moiazza (Dolomites)

In the Framont group of the Dolomites Gabriele Walicki and I established Baila Morena, a modern alpine outing opened ground-up on the south face of Corno del Framont, overlooking the Agordina basin (Belluno).

I'd been thinking about this line for a long time. For years, while ascending or descending through the Sejere col, I would look at that central section of the wall — still untouched, compact, and inviting. Through my binoculars I studied every detail, imagining the most logical and easiest way through the slabs and cracks.

Just a bit to the left runs Elisir di Giovinezza (VI°+ pass. VII°, A4, R4), opened in 2001 by Santomaso and Conedera: a demanding line that still awaits its first repeat and free ascent. It’s a route that tells of a different era in alpinism, when aid climbing was part of the process of discovery and exploration. Today it remains there, silent and powerful, observing how climbing styles change, but not the passion that drives us upward. Before starting to establish Baila Morena, we carefully observed and studied the face, choosing an independent and distinct line out of respect for such a wall.

In September 2024, after a rather difficult period, I felt it was time to turn that long-standing thought into reality. During the first reccies I went up with my father, Giorgio, left some gear at the base and studied the rock up close. Soon after, I invited Gabri, who immediately agreed to join my on this adventure.

From the very first meters, we realised exactly how much the wall had to offer: solid rock, elegant moves, continuous and never trivial climbing. The first two pitches, up slabs and cracks, lead to a suspended ledge — the starting point for the more vertical and technical sections. Next come the two crux pitches: the first unfolds on a technical slab requiring balance and precision; the second follows a more athletic crack, with sustained and decisive moves.

The final pitches alternate between cracks and athletic slabs on consistently solid rock, offering varied and exciting climbing all the way to the top. Exposure and rock quality accompanied us throughout the ascent, delivering an intense and deeply satisfying experience.

The result is a modern alpine climb, with runout protection requiring additional gear, on excellent rock. Our priority was always to respect the wall: few bolts, natural lines, and a ground-up free ascent. The belays are equipped with 10 mm stainless steel bolts. On the pitches we left a few threads, some pitons, and a handful of bolts.

After several months of waiting - due to other commitments and often wet conditions - the first free ascent came about in autumn 2025 and completed a journey that had begun more than a year earlier. I dedicate Baila Morena to my mother, who deeply loved these mountains above our home.

A heartfelt thanks to Gabriele for sharing every stage of the project with enthusiasm, to Giorgio for the photos, and to our friends at Rivolta and Art Climb for their support.