Lone Wolves on Rocca di Nambrone (Presanella) established by Stefano Campanini, Matteo Terzi

On 24 August Matteo Terzi and I established Lupi Solitari (Lone Wolves), a new route on Rocca di Nambrone in the Presanella area of the Italian Alps

The name of the route originates from a reconnaissance hike. That day, as we were scrambling up the "Via Normale" (which leads from Lago Gelato to Passo Nambrone along the ridge), a lone wolf passed beneath the east face of the mountain. This wall of compact and fantastic granite rises vertical and elegant above Lakes Serodoli and Gelato, with the Brenta Dolomites in the background.

The line of the route is obvious: a bold crack that climbs the center of the east face — an irresistible invitation for any climber. So, over a couple of days in summer, we returned to establish this incredible line, short but fairly bold, in a spectacular setting next to a huge granite arch. The route was climbed from the ground-up, using pegs on the pitches and bolts at the belays. All the gear we used was left in-situ.

The route reaches the summit of the Rocca, and the descent is via the "Via Normale," following the cairns in a south-easterly direction. On the wall, further to the left and towards the arch, there is a historical route, perhaps put up by Maffei and Alimonta, of which, however, we found no trace.

The approach can be made either from Lago Nambino by hiking of about 2 and a half hours, or by taking the Pradalago cable car and continuing on foot towards Serodoli for about 1 and a half hours.

Stefano Campanini, Stenico (TN)