Home page Planetmountain.com
Rolando Larcher climbing Dolmen, Pilastro Menhir, Meisules dla Biesces (Sella group), Dolomites
Photo by Matteo Pavana
Rolando Larcher climbing Dolmen, Pilastro Menhir, Meisules dla Biesces (Sella group), Dolomites
Photo by Matteo Pavana
Dolmen first ascended by Rolando Larcher and Menhir first ascended by Hanspeter Eisendle, Pilastro Menhir, Meisules dla Biesces (Sella group), Dolomites
Photo by Matteo Pavana
Nicola Sartori and Rolando Larcher below Dolmen, Pilastro Menhir, Meisules dla Biesces (Sella group), Dolomites
Photo by archivio Rolando Larcher

Dolmen, Rolando Larcher's new Dolomites single pitch climb

di

Rolando Larcher talks about the first ascent and first free ascent of Dolmen, a new single pitch rock climb up the Menhir Pillar at ​​Meisules dla Biesces (Sella group), Dolomites.

Dolmen is a semi-trad climb which I first ascended in 2017 to the left of the famous Menhir. After repeating Menhir I glanced to the left and noticed there was room for another quality line.

Knowing the "Gardenesi", the Val Gardena locals and their repulsion for bolts in this part of Meisules dla Biesces I forewarned them and… decided to try and establish the route ground-up in my usual style: trad to the max and bolts only as a last resort. And so in 2017, belayed by my son Alessandro, I managed to make the first ascent.

Basically it’s a second pitch about half the height as Menhir. It starts from a small ledge that is reached via an easy grade IV and V crack that needs protecting with trad gear. You belay on a spike and right away there’s a ring bolt, which backs up the belay and is used for the descent.

From there the route proper begins, first with a Friend, then a thread which protects the first runout section that leads to a bolt. This protects a second runout and the crux, 7c obligatory climbing past small crimps. From here some laybacking and pockets lead past another 4 Friends, and after two further threads you reach the last Friend and another bolt, the third, which I placed only to indicate the independent belay and avoid that repeaters all dive towards the Menhir bolt.

I tried it a couple of times in 2017 and even took some pictures, when the moment came for the send the weather changed abruptly and I had to put things off until summer 2018. Last year though my elbow gave me problems and crimping those tiny holds was out of the question, hence I postponed things to this summer. Unexpectedly, after checking our the moves carefully, I sent it pinkpoint and then, on a high, led it again in perfect style.

The route is 25m long and I suggest 8a grade with mandatory 7c climbing. As to the route quality I’d give it 5 stars, those who know Menhir know what I mean! Here’s the gear in the correct order: purple Totem, blue Totem, blue Camalot, yellow Camalot, red Totem, purple Totem.

I’d like to thank Matteo Pavana for the beautiful photos and Alessandro Larcher, Tiziano Buccella and Nicola Sartori for the patient belaying.

As always I’d also like to thank: La SportivaPetzl, Dinamiche Verticali, Montura, Totem Cam

by Rolando Larcher

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu
31.10.2016
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu
On the 'most beautiful and famous big wall in Corsica', i.e. Punta U Corbu at Col de Bavella, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia have completed their 'Ro-Ma Project’ to create the new multi-pitch rock climb Ro.Ma. (180m, 7c max, 7a+ obl). Oviglia provides the details.
Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher
19.10.2016
Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher
Thirty years later. The report by Rolando Larcher who, with his son Alessandro, returned to the climbs Elephant Baby (at San Paolo) and Gravity Games (at Eremo) not only to repeat these historic routes established in 1986 and the first to be graded 8a at Arco, but also to show to someone of the "indoor climbing generation" the origins of sport climbing which in the early 1980’s attempted, through trials and also "errors", to find its way.
Happy Ledge in Val Trementina, new climb by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori in Paganella
15.10.2014
Happy Ledge in Val Trementina, new climb by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori in Paganella
The report by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori about the first ascent of Happy Ledge (335m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory), a new rock climb in the beautiful Val Trementina, a little jewel in the Paganella crown: Verdon-like, wild and little-known.
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
21.09.2010
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established the line with various partners over 6 days during 2007 and 2008.
05.10.2002
Rolando Larcher rides "La Grande Onda - Big Wave"
On 14/09 Rolando Larcher the Italian Rolando Larcher made the first ascent of the "La Grande Onda - Big Wave"
29.08.2001
Larcher and Vigiani on the Marmolada
On 12/08/01 Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani redpointed their project of the SW Face of the Marmolada.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra