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Claudio Migliorini, Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini below the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites where they established their new route
Photo by Claudio Migliorini
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites. From left to right: Cima Piccola, Cima Grande, Cima Ovest
Photo by archivio Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini

New Tre Cime di Lavaredo Dolomites rock climb by Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini, Nicola Tondini

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Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have made the first ascent of big new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.

Italian mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have completed a new route right in the middle of the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. In 2016 the three alpinists started their line to the right of the famous Via Couzy (René Desmaison, Pierre Mazeaud, Pierre Kohlmann, Bernard Lagesse 1959, first free ascent Mauro Bole 1999), then in 2018 and in 2019 they continued establishing the route ground-up, without the use of aid, with trad gear and pegs on the pitches and bolts at the belays.

Having forged 14 pitches through the yellow overhanging section and breached the large roof earlier this summer, they returned a few days ago to complete the route that now runs completely independently up to the summit apart from one belay shared with Alpenliebe (Kurt Astner, Christoph Hainz, 1998- 99).

Currently the new route does not have a name and the first free ascent is still outstanding, but the trio consider it one of the most challenging lines they have ever established. Having cut their teeth exploring difficult new terrain on Civetta, Sass de la Crusc, Cima Scotoni and Mulaz, this new route promises to be an important addition to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Further details will follow in due course.

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