Big new winter climb up Point Whymper on north face of Grandes Jorasses

Taking advantage of a great weather window, at the end of the year a dream team of French mountaineers comprised of Léo Billon, Amaury Fouillade, Nicolas Jean and Enzo Oddo made the first ascent of Basique on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

After making the approach on the 26th of December and a first bivy at the base of the mountain, the team spent the next 4 days and three nights navigating 1100m of terrain, past difficulties up to V+ A2+ M5. They summited at 10:00 on the 30th of December.

The new route ascends the lower ice/snow section in common with Japanese Couloir, Eldorado and Directe de l’Amitié, before tackling virgin rock to the right of Eldorado. It then shares the hardest pitch of Directe de l’Amitié before crossing it and continuing independently to the summit of Point Whymper (4184m). 

 

 

 

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