Home page Planetmountain.com
El Capitan with the routes The Nose, Reticent Wall, Mescalito, Pacific Ocean Wall, North American Wall, Sea of Dreams, Atlantic Ocean Wall, Native Son, Tangerine Trip, Zenyatta Mondatta, Zodiac, Lunar Eclipse
Photo by Francesco Piardi
Yosemite valley and The Nose on El Capitan. Half Dome can clearly be seen in the background.
Photo by Hansjörg Auer
El Capitan with the routes The Salathé Wall, Muir Wall, The Shield, The Nose, Reticent Wall, Pacific Ocean Wall e North America Wall
Photo by Francesco Piardi
El Capitan at night
Photo by Jon Glassberg / Louder Than Eleven

Sébastien Berthe free climbs The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite

di

Belgian rock climber Sébastien Berthe has made a rare free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite.

Belgium’s Sébastien Berthe has managed to free climb The Nose, the most famous big wall in the world first ascended in 1958 after 47 days on El Capitan by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore, and freed by Lynn Hill the year Berthe was born, in 1993.

Climbing with his friend Loic Debry, Berthe needed 8 days for his ascent, during which he led all the difficult pitches (above 5.12a). Berthe managed to reach Eagle Ledge on the first day, then got caught up behind slower parties as he made his way to the Great Roof on day 2. He climbed this famous crux pitch on day 3 (and only on the third attempt) and continued up to Camp 6 where he rested for a day before attempting the notorious Changing Corners pitch on his sixth and seventh day on the wall. The duo had planned a 6-day ascent and Debry had to leave, hence the support of Barbara Zangerl - who is currently also trying the route - proved providential. The Austrian brought food and belayed Berthe as he sent the Changing Corners on day 8, before climbing the remaining pitches straight off thanks in part to the beta provided by Zangerl.

26-year-old Berthe had climbed The Nose twice previously, ascending the prow in 10 hours and then, in 2017, in 3 days with his father; unfortunately during this second attempt the Great Roof was completely wet, forcing him to return this year. It's worth noting that he didn't ever walk to the top of El Cap to work the crux pitches on the upper section of the route, but instead gradually worked the route ground-up. Berthe obviously talks about a dream coming true and his success comes after two other important free climbs on El Capitan: the second free ascent of Heart Route with Simon Castagne in 2016 and Freerider free and in a single day with Siebe Vanhee in 2017.

While The Nose is the most popular route in El Capitan, paradoxically free ascents are extremely rare. After her above-mentioned ground-breaking first free ascent of The Nose over a four-day period in mid-September in 1993, in September 1994 Lynn Hill made her era-defining sub 24-hour free ascent of The Nose with Steve Sutton. Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden swung leads and free climbed The Nose in 2005, and Caldwell climbed the route free in just 11 hours a fortnight later during his Nose + Freerider 24-hour double. In November 2014 Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven climbed The Nose free in three days, while Keita Kurakami required five days for his rope solo free ascent and 15-year-old Connor Herson required three with his father Jim Herson in 2018. For the record, in 1998 America’s Scott Burke free climbed all the route except for the crux pitch, The Great Roof, which he was forced to climb on toprope as it was wet at the time.


INTERVIEW: the impossible The Nose in Yosemite and the vertical world of Lynn Hill

The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite, U.S.A.
First ascent: 
Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore, 1958 after 47 days of climbing
Length: 870 m (31 pitches)
Grade: 5.13c or 5.9 A2
First free ascent: Lynn Hill, Brooke Sandahl, 4 days September 1993
First single day free ascent: Lynn Hill, Steve Sutton, 22:00 19/09 - 21:00 20/09/1994

View this post on Instagram

A dream came true: I just free climbed THE NOSE in an 8-days ground-up push, partnered up with Loic Debry! I led all the pitches above 5.12a and we swapped leads on the easy pitches. The roof and the corners were climbed on preplaced gear. Until the end, I wouldn’t have bet on my success, but I kept fighting: I even had to add two extra days as we had planned only 6 days on the wall. I got the Changing Corners beast on the last try that our food supplies allowed us. This ascent was a real team work, thanks guys for the cheerings, belays, pictures, food and support… Without you I could never have finished this one: @debryloic, @a.eggermont, @babsizangerl, @florian_gourgue, @alexx4034, Chris, Lucas, @alanaaflor, @gillesdenisexpeditions, @nathan_goffart and so many others! I have dreamt about this line since I was a child when my father told me about @_linacolina_ freeing it the year I was born. I feel so happy, relieved and thankful! More details, pictures and stories to come! Credit to @a.eggermont for the pictures . @scarpa_de @lecomte.alpirando @petzl_official @revolutionclimbingteam @escalpades #thenose #elcap #noplacetoofar #yosemiteclimbing #project #stylefirst #climbing #petzl #accesstheinaccessible #helmetup #rockclimbing #climbing_lovers #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

A post shared by Sébastien Berthe (@sebertheclimber) on

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Sébastien Berthe makes second free ascent of Heart Route on El Capitan, Yosemite
03.12.2016
Sébastien Berthe makes second free ascent of Heart Route on El Capitan, Yosemite
Over a 6-day period in October 2016 23-year-old Belgian Sebastien Berthe, climbing together with Simon Castagne, made the second free ascent of Free Heart Route (5.13b V10) on El Capitan.
Lynn Hill / 25 years ago the first free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan
08.06.2018
Lynn Hill / 25 years ago the first free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan
After the new The Nose speed record set on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold on 06/06/2018, here’s a throwback to our 2002 interview with Lynn Hill that explores her historic first free ascent in 1993 and her groundbreaking one-day free ascent in 1994 of this legendary big wall in Yosemite Valley, USA.
Connor Herson, 15, free climbs The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite
21.11.2018
Connor Herson, 15, free climbs The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite
Connor Herson has made a free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite. Climbing with his father Jim Herson over a three-day period, Connor is one of the few climbers to achieve this feat. Aged only 15, he is also the youngest person to free climb The Nose.
Keita Kurakami climbs The Nose on El Capitan free and rope solo
20.11.2018
Keita Kurakami climbs The Nose on El Capitan free and rope solo
Climbing solo and self-belayed for five days, Japan’s Keita Kurakami has repeated The Nose on El Capitan (Yosemite, USA). This is the first time that the route freed in 1993 by Lynn Hill has been climbed rope solo all free.
Keita Kurakami free climbs The Nose on El Capitan
16.11.2017
Keita Kurakami free climbs The Nose on El Capitan
Japanese rock climber Keita Kurakami has made a free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan (Yosemite, USA). This is only the 5th free ascent of the monumental big wall.
Lynn Hill
02.10.2002
Lynn Hill
Interview with Lynn Hill, a world-class sport climbing symbol. Her legendary one-day free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in 1994 Yosemite and her entire vertical world as seen by Lynn herself
Lynn Hill and the video of The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite
21.11.2014
Lynn Hill and the video of The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite
The video of Lynn Hill climbing The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite with footage of her historic one-day ascent in 1994.
Jorg Verhoeven repeats The Nose, Yosemite
07.11.2014
Jorg Verhoeven repeats The Nose, Yosemite
Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven has successfully repeated The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
03.11.2005
Caldwell climbs Nose & Freerider in a day!
Just two weeks after Caldwell's astounding repeat of the Nose, the young American has pushed things further by phenomenally climbing both the Nose and Freerider on El Capitan, Yosemite, in under 24 hours!
20.10.2005
Caldwell repeats The Nose!
Yosemite news roundup. On 17 October Tommy Caldwell made a sub-12 hour ascent of the Nose, just days after his free ascent together with wife Beth Rodden. Nicolas Favresse from Belgium makes first ascent of L'Appât on El Capitan (VI 5.12d). Leo Houlding from England onsighted Half Dome's Regular Northwest Face and repeated Freerider.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra