Tre Cime di Lavaredo, new Cima Piccola rock climb in the Dolomites
On 13/07/2019 the two mountain guides Manuel Baumgartner and Mark Oberlechner made the first ascent of Nostalgie, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the north face of Cima Piccola, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites. Baumgartner reports.
While climbing Spigolo Comici - Mazzorana on the north face of Cima Piccola back in July 2015 I noticed the imposing wall between the Comici - Mazzorana arete and the Fehrmann chimneys, first climbed in 1909 by Rudolf Fehrmann and Oliver Perry-Smith.
It took almost four years before I happened to speak with Mark Oberlechner about this wall. Surprisingly, he had noticed exactly the same line. We didn’t wast any time and on the rainy 13th of July we started our route.
On the lower section there are countless variations to reach the section of the face that had caught our attention, and it was where the Comici Mazzorana trends to the right that we wanted to start our line. In order to save time we climbed unroped up to this point. From here we headed into new terrain, past some very varied climbing and the crux second pitch. We managed to establish the route in a day, and returned on 10 August to make the first free ascent.
Nostalgie has a very alpine feel to it, all the pegs we used have been left insitu. Some belays have two pegs, but the stances can be backed up with nuts and friends. With the exception of the first pitch, the rock quality is relatively good.