The routes

In November 2015 Simone Pedeferri, Paolo Marazzi and Marco Maggioni made the first ascent of El Chaman Loco up the El Chaman face at El Salto, Mexico. 4 pitches remained to be freed, with difficulties estimated at 8c. On 28...

Amazing mixed climb up the couloir located between the Tour des Jorasses pillar and Punta Massimo.

Testa o Croce, Heads or Tails, was established over a period of four days ground-up on Taoujdad in the Taghia Gorge. The result is a beautiful climb on consistently excellent rock — never trivial, but not extreme either.

Brilliant addition to the SE Face of Pyramide du Tacul. Ussha climbs to the left of the classic Via Ottoz and to the right of the route put up by Enrico Bonino and Gianni Carbone. Essentially, it follows the abseil line of...

Les Hommes Bleus climbs the NW face of the incredibile Dôme de l'Éléphant in the Tesnou are of the Hoggar desert in Algeria. L’Elephant is a massive, rounded monolith of coarse-grained brown granite that juts out from the desert sands....

Bianco Invisibile tackles a line between Vols Incertains (Sébastien Ibanez, Baptiste Obino 2022) on the left and the route put up by Arnaud Clavel and Matteo Pellin on the right on the east face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4112m)...

23 pitches on the north face of Cerro Walwalun in Cochamó Valley, Chile, opened from February 2 to 6, 2013, by Lorenzo Lanfranchi, Mirko Masè, Simone Pedeferri, Mattia Tisi, and Andrea Zaffaroni. First ascent and free ascent, 7b+ max, 6c+...

El Diedro de lo Squalupo is located in the upper reaches of the the Cochamó valley, in the stunning side valley, Valle de la Paloma, just to the left of Why Papi Guay (2009) in the Sector de Mamón. On the traverse to...

A pleasant and logical mixed climb to the right of the famous Anche l’Orco va in vacanza (Even the Ogre Goes on Holiday). Overall, the difficulty is moderate, but the line is very enjoyable, a perfect combination with the other icefalls nearby. It certainly deserves...

I 3 Orchi, the The 3 Orcs, is a beautiful mixed climb close to Sappada. The first two pitches follow L’orco va in vacanza. Pitch three crosses curtains, drips and some cauliflower-like formations. Reach the belay after a delicate traverse. According to...

4Matic is a moderate, never particularly demanding ice climb on Laaser Ferner Wand. It can be considered an interesting alternative to the existing routes, Defender and Blue Wave (both established by Roland Math and Thomas Hofer, 2016). Laaser Ferner is a...

¿Quién sigue? on the east face of Aguja Val Biois follows a crack system that runs parallel to La Torcida (Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff, Lutz Zybell 01/2018) and shares only one belay with this climb, at the pendulum, while the rest is...

Beautiful climb on immaculate granite established all-free on the west face of La Mascara. It shares the first pitch of the legendary South African route before "continuing left up a series of amazing steep corners littered with golden wind blasted face holds.." No...

A pleasant couloir on Aiguille du Toula just a stone's throw from the Skyway cable car. Five fun pitches on ice, compressed snow and some mixed pitches.

Interesting modern mixed climb to the left of the historic summer route Schwarze Wand and, in winter, the Mur de Pisciadù Eisfall.

This striking dihedral/corner had caught my attention a few times in the past, but I could never see much ice and so I never managed to explore it. However, when Mathieu flew over it with his paraglider and got a good view of how...