Joy Division Qualido, Val di Mello, Jonas Schild, Thomas Schmid

1 / 29

Joy Division - Monte Qualido, Val Qualido

Italy>Lombardy>Bernina Alps>Masino - Bregaglia>Monte Qualido, Val Qualido

Main article

Traduci in

1 / 29

Jonas Schild climbing pitch 1 (8b) of 'Joy Division' on Qualido in Val di Mello, June 2025

Diego Schläppi

Beauty

First ascent

Simone Pedeferri, summer 2004

Length

800m

Difficulty

Departure

San Martino, Val Masino

Link

www.paolo-sonja.net/qualido/joydivision.html

Published on

18/09/2025

Route

Joy Division was first ascended by local climber Simone Pedeferri and is a combination of three routes, the first three pitchs of Forse si, forse no (Igor Koller, Peter Machai, Miro Piala, 1996) followed by Mellodramma (Gianni & Paolo Covelli, Silvio Fieschi, Fabio Spatola, 1989) up to the 15th pitch to then finish up Melat (Sonja Brambati, Adriano Carnati e Paolo Vitali, 1993). Pedeferri climbed the line over three different days in summer 2004: the first three pitches one evening in July, up to pitch 11 the next day and then, after retreating due to a storm, the final pitches.

Itinerary

See topo

Descent

Abseil down Melat.

Notes

The first repeat and first free ascent was carried out by James Pearson with Nico Nastorg from 12-13/10/2011. Pearson led the entire route in single push, without ever falling and a bivvy at circa half-height.