Monte Monaco, San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily, Christoph Hainz, Gerda Schwienbacher

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Ballo Corallo - Monte Monaco

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Christoph Hainz

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The route line of 'Ballo Corallo' on the Monte Monaco, San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily (Christoph Hainz, Gerda Schwienbacher, 10/2024 & 10/2025)

archivio Christoph Hainz

Beauty

First ascent

Christoph Hainz, Gerda Schwienbacher, 10/2024 & 10/2025. FFA: Christoph Hain, Christoph Piccolruaz 31/10/25

Christoph Hainz

Orientation

East

Length

220m

Height

532m

Difficulty

7a+

Obligatory difficulty

Departure

San Vito Lo Capo

Link

www.christoph-hainz.com

Published on

07/11/2025

Route

Ballo Corallo was established ground-up on the prominent tower of Monte Monaco's east face, between the routes Fratelli Titt and Sogni d'Oro on the left and Palma Nana on the right. Seven pitches with difficulties up to 7a+ offer very beautiful slab climbing on sharp, pocketed rock.

At the top of the pillar, it is possible to continue to the summit by climbing Via del Vento Sud (5c), established by Hainz and Schwienbacher in 2019.

Getting there

From San Vito Lo Capo (TP) head towards the Zingaro Nature Reserve, park 250 meters after the "La Tonnara" entrance. From there, it's a 15-minute walk to the base of the route.

Itinerary

P1: 6a, 32m
P2: 6c+, 35m (direct 6c+, variant 6b)
P3: 6a, 38m
P4: 5c+, 30m
P5: 7a+, 35m
P6: 6a+, 20m
P7: 5a/5c, 35m

Descent

There are two options for the descent:
1. Descend by abseiling down the route.
2. At the top of the route, 7 meters to the left, locate Sogni D'oro anchor. From there, make 5 abseils: The first is 35m. The second is 45m, straight down the overhang - the anchor is visible on a small ledge. The third continues straight down for 35m, followed by two more 40m abseils. (Total time approx. 1 hour).

Gear

Protection: bolts and threads. Anchors equipped with bolts and rings.
Take 16 quickdraws, some slings, and two 50m half ropes.