Thriller - Valle del Lys
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Umberto Bado
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Easily visible from the village of Gressoney la Trinité, Thriller '92 is one of the iconic ice climbs of the Lys Valley. Thanks to its altitude and favorable orientation, this icefall is climbable from early December until the end of winter and always promises fantastic days out, along with the spectacular view of the Monte Rosa peaks.
Given the shortage of ice in recent seasons, Thriller has become increasingly popular despite the steep and sometimes tortuous approach, and there are now days of genuine crowds. It's no wonder that bolted anchors have recently been added.
The crowds, photos, reviews, and equipped anchors should not overshadow the "alpine" nature of Thriller. It is located in a fairly remote part of the valley, and the approach can be extremely dangerous due to avalanches.
From the Pont Saint Martin motorway exit, drive up the Lys Valley to Gressoney la Trinité. Park near the playground located between the petrol station and the ski lift parking lot.
AccessCross the bridge in front of the playground and, respectfully crossing the cross-country ski trail, take path #10. Follow it to the Schelbete pasture and finally climb the steep meadows to the base of the first pitch of Thriller.
GPS coordinates: 45°49'33"N 7°48'51"E
P1: A fine pitch, not always in condition, which offers, at its exit, a vertical section of about ten meters. Belay on a tree with a sling and a maillon. 40m.
If this pitch is not formed, it is possible to bypass the wall on the left through the sparse forest. Bypasses to the right are also possible but on more exposed terrain. Climb the slope to the next wall.
P2: An easy and long ice flow, belay on ice screws at the end. 6m.
P3: Move to the base of the pillar. Climb the pedestal and then the beautiful pillar to its top. 40m. Belay on ice.
P4: Continue up the beautiful gully to the terrace at the base of the chimney. 20m. Belay on bolts to the right of the terrace.
P5: Enter the characteristic icy chimney, which via caving-style climbing leads out onto the upper slopes. 20m, belay on bolts.
DescentWith one abseil out of the chimney, return to B4, and from there make another abseil to the base of the pillar. Then descend on foot on the left (looking downstream) to B1, from where a 30m abseil elads you back to the base.
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