Smooth Criminal - Valle del Lys
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Smooth Criminal is a mixed route that runs alongside the famous Thriller '92, one of the most beautiful icefalls in the Lys Valley, first climbed in 1991 by the very strong Alessandro Jaccod and Ezio Marlier.
The new climb was initially conceived to connect the icy slabs that form almost every year above the pillar of Thriller, but further left of the classic pitches. So, in December 2024, with Paolo Giacobbe and Amedeo Giobbio, we first followed Thriller to the top of the pillar and then explored this section of the wall - so close yet so unknown.
This gave rise to three pitches of mixed climbing across ice blobs, cracks, and icy bulges, leading to the upper slopes. A mostly technical climb, with a few bolts for encouragement.
In keeping with the area's theme, the new line was immediately named Smooth Criminal, despite the fact that we knew that something was still missing: an independent mixed pitch leading to the top of the pillar. But 2024 passed by, and the second chapter of Smooth arrived only the following year when, with Luca Ponziani, I returned to the base of Thriller and opened a pitch to the right of the beautiful pillar. Unlike the upper pitches, this new pitch is more akin to climbing at a crag - pumpy, relatively short, and fun.
The new first pitch of Smooth Criminal starts behind the pillar and then uses nice cracks further to the right. However, due to its proximity to the pillar, the difficulty and commitment can vary greatly from season to season.
From the Pont Saint Martin motorway exit, drive up the Lys Valley to Gressoney la Trinité. Park near the playground located between the petrol station and the ski lift parking lot.
AccessCross the bridge in front of the playground and, respectfully crossing the cross-country ski trail, take path #10. Follow it to the Schelbete pasture and finally climb the steep meadows to the base of the first pitch of Thriller. Climb the icefall to the base of the pillar.
GPS coordinates: 45°49'32"N 7°48'43"E
Smooth Criminal starts to the right of the Thriller pillar. The belay is in the cave, positioned as far right as possible to avoid being under the drip line of the pitch.
P1: Climb on ice to reach the first bolt. With good moves between ice and rock, reach a crack after which the bolts continue. After the sixth bolt, return to ice and belay on ice at the top of the Thriller pillar. 30m, WI5/M7, variable depending on the width of the pillar.
P2: Traverse left on very thin ice (unprotectable) to reach the corner with ice blobs or turf. Climb it (one bolt) and continue on turf and ice in the corner. With a powerful move, reach the thicker ice flow to the right (short screws or a pecker in a crack) and follow it to the belay. 20m, WI4 M5.
P3: Climb a compact wall to the right, 3 bolts, pull over the roof into a leaning corner with turf. One bolt – runout gear. Climb the corner to the belay. 15m, M6+.
P4: Follow the ice flow above the belay, which leads to a slab under the overhang. Move onto a second ice flow to the left, climb it until you meet the rock. On mixed ground, two bolts, reach the exit of the wall and the final belay. 15m, WI3 M4.
DescentExit onto the meadow and head right to reach the chain anchors of Thriller. Descending the route is possible but awkward.
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