Smooth Criminal established in Valle di Gressoney, Italy

Smooth Criminal is a mixed route that runs alongside the famous Thriller '92, one of the most beautiful icefalls in the Lys valley, aka Valle di Gressoney, first climbed in 1991 by the very strong Alessandro Jaccod and Ezio Marlier.

The new climb was initially conceived to connect the icy slabs that form almost every year above the pillar of Thriller, but further left of the classic pitches. So, in December 2024, with Paolo Giacobbe and Amedeo Giobbio, we first followed Thriller to the top of the pillar and then explored this section of the wall - so close yet so unknown.

This gave rise to three pitches of mixed climbing across ice blobs, cracks, and icy bulges, leading to the upper slopes. A mostly technical climb, with a few bolts for encouragement.

In keeping with the area's theme, the new line was immediately named Smooth Criminal, despite the fact that we knew that something was still missing: an independent mixed pitch leading to the top of the pillar. But 2024 passed by, and the second chapter of Smooth arrived only the following year when, with Luca Ponziani, I returned to the base of Thriller and opened a pitch to the right of the beautiful pillar. Unlike the upper pitches, this new pitch is more akin to climbing at a crag - pumpy, relatively short, and fun.

The new first pitch of Smooth Criminal starts behind the pillar and then uses nice cracks further to the right. However, due to its proximity to the pillar, the difficulty and commitment can vary greatly from season to season.

Umberto Bado, Turin

Link: guidealpinetorino.com