The routes

This striking dihedral/corner had caught my attention a few times in the past, but I could never see much ice and so I never managed to explore it. However, when Mathieu flew over it with his paraglider and got a good view of how...

Via dla Surité is located in another hidden corner of the Dolomites, on the sunny south face of Piz Parom. It is thanks to the somewhat challenging approach that the route gets its name, Via dla Surité, which translated from...

Lastun de Mareo is located on the south pillar of Muntejela de Senes, a truly spectacular location. To reach the start you need to make 6 abseils, preferably with a 60m rope, then you climb back up. It is a...

Forza di Polacco on the north face of Monte Monaco tackles a completely independent line up a beautiful, overhanging pillar and is fully equipped with bolts and belays. 

The route Hasta la vista is mostly on solid rock, only the initial and final pitches require a bit of care. It is certainly not a sports climb. Only the belays 2 to 8 have been equipped with one bolt. In order...

Dolomiti Race on Piz Ciavazes is a a very beautiful multi-pitch alpine sports climb on grey and reddish rock marked by pockets. Established ground-up and rope-solo, the climbing is exposed. The entire route is bolted and all the belays are equipped...

A pleasant narrow couloir just a stone's throw from the Skyway cable car. Six pitches lead past difficulties in the region of TD-, M6 and AI4+ to the 3,534-meter summit of Aiguille de Toule.

An interesting six-pitch climb that leads to the summit of the famous Pedra Longa sea stack at Baunei in Sardinia. The route tackles a line through the band of yellow wall rock to the left of the excellent Cromosomi Corsari,...

Parzival on Westliche Dreifaltigkeit in the Alpstein group was established ground-up by Markus Hutter, Fabio Lupo and Michael Obendrauf and freed in May 2017 by Michael Wohlleben. Hutter had made an early ground-up foray in 1998 together with Obendrauf, but after a...

Rayu was established ground-up on the south face of Peña Santa de Castilla in the Picos de Europa. The first part consists of seven pitches (about 300 m) with difficulties that do not exceed 7b, but many of them either...

As a first ascensionist, you are never completely objective about your own climbs. But the rock quality is really very good and the climbing is also very varied. In my opinion, Trog mi Wind on the Floitenturm right next to the alla...

Leider Geil on the Speckkarplatte is a really beautiful route on great rock! Every pitch is different from the previous one. In my opinion, it doesn't get much better than this.

Bold climb up the center of the Mirror Wall, established ground-up and in excellent style by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll after a previous attempt in summer 2023 by Franco Cookson, Ben Ditto, Nicolas Favresse and...

Sto imparando a volare on Punta Emma in the Rosengarten / Catinaccio massif ascends the obvious corridor of rock to the left and parallel to the recently opened Giupponi-Larcher. A climbs a direct line up very beautiful rock with increasing difficulties that peak at...

Eclissi on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia is an interesting climb and on excellent rock. Established ground-up over a period of 3 days, plus a further 3 to clean the route, it follows a completely independent line between Giallo Dream...

A beautiful route with amazing crack climbing and plenty of hand jams and laybacks on Rognon Vaudano, below Dent du Géant. The second-to-last, but especially the last pitch are really quite incredible.