Le Fantôme du Bricolage - Valsavarenche
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Giovanni Ravizza, Mountain Guide
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archivio Giovanni Ravizza
Le Fantôme du Bricolage is a dry variant of Il fantasma di ghiaccio (The Ice Phantom), an ice climb that rarely forms and that was first ascended in 1993 by A. Cambiolo, B. Gilardi, X. Iturrate, R. Lale, and S. Ruzza.
From Turin, take the motorway towards the Mont Blanc Tunnel, exiting at Aosta West/Saint Pierre. Continue towards Courmayeur, and after about 3 km, turn right for Valsavarenche. Follow the valley up to the village of Degioz, then take the narrow gravel road towards the village church and park behind the cemetery.
AccessContinue on foot for 40/45 minutes from the small church of Degioz, first on a path and then through a steep forest to the base of the waterfall, which is clearly visible from the road. The ice flow is to the left of Trip in the Night.
ItineraryP1: WI 3+, 15m
P2: M6+ WI6, 25m
P3: WI4, 50m
2x60m ropes, Black Diamond C4 cams from 0.3 to 1, 6/7 medium and short ice screws, 8/9 quickdraws.
NotesPay very close attention to the conditions of the icefall, as they can change very rapidly.
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