Rognon Vaudano, Mont Blanc, Alberto Boschiazzo, Niccolò Bruni

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Le Piolet Perdu - Rognon Vaudano

France>Haute-Savoie>Graian Alps>Mont Blanc>Rognon Vaudano

Niccolò Bruni, Mountain Guide

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The first ascent of 'Le Piolet Perdu' at Rognon Vaudano, Mont Blanc (Alberto Boschiazzo, Niccolò Bruni, 11/12/2025)

archivio Niccolò Bruni

Beauty

First ascent

Alberto Boschiazzo, Niccolò Bruni, 11/12/2025

Niccolò Bruni, Mountain Guide

Orientation

South

Length

150m

Difficulty

TD+ M5+

Departure

Rifugio Torino, Punta Helbronner

Link

www.guidecourmayeur.com

Published on

09/01/2026

Route

Located on Rognon Vaudano, this beautiful and sustained 5-pitch mixed climb, with difficulties not exceeding M5+. The descent is conveniently made by abseiling down the line of ascent. The route gets its name from the fact that during the first ascent, Boschiazzo dropped his XDream ice tool, and it's still up there somewhere.

Getting there

Reach Courmayeur and take the Skyway cable car to Punta Helbronner.

Access

The approach is about 40/45 minutes from Punta Helbronner and the Torino mountain hut, following the trail that leads towards Aigille Marbrées, and then heading up towards the base of the peak. The route starts to the right of Camalot.

Itinerary

P1: M5+ 1 bolt
P2: M4+
P3: M5+
P4: M5+ 1 bolt
P5: M5

Descent

Abseil down the route.

Gear

1x60m rope, a set of BD C4 cams from 0.3 to 2. Double up on 0.4, 0.5, and 0.75.

Notes

Belays with a rappel ring and a white static rope.