The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

21
Routes in archive
An... Ice Surprise
An... Ice Surprise - Combe Maudite
M7, WI5, A1+, III
A very demanding route which requires a good level of familiarity with drytooling and placing gear. It has the potential of becoming a classic route in its genre.
Au-delà des ombres
Au-delà des ombres - Vallée de Freissinières
IV/5
Au-delà des ombres is a beautiful 12 pitch outing, never extreme, which climbs an interesting mix of ice walls and snow fields. From the top of Happy Together the route traverses right (at times mixed M4/5) to reach the wide...
Cascade Chantriaux
Cascade Chantriaux - Vallée de Freissinières
III/5/5+
Cascade Chantriaux is the longest ice fall on the sector opposite Tete de Gramusat. Although somewhat discontinuous, the second pitch climbs a splendid free-standing drip. Unfortunately it rarely forms completely, and the upper section is often not in condition as...
Cascade des Viollins
Cascade des Viollins - Vallée de Freissinières
III/5/5+
Splendid drip located opposite Les Viollins. Generally climbed in 4 pitches, first up a wide varied sheet, then a beautiful free-standing drip and finally up an easier and less exposed streak. Every now and then another parallel drip forms on...
Cosmiques Arête
Cosmiques Arête - Aguille du Midi
II, AD, 4a.
The Cosmiques Arête is one of the most famous and popular climbs in the Mont Blanc massif, and quite rightly so. Excellent granite, exposure, incredible scenery and mid-grade mixed climbing (with some challenging sections thrown in) are the ingredients of...
El Chico
El Chico - Pyramide Du Tacul
M6+ 4°
El Chico" ascends the NNE Face of Pyramide Du Tacul and combines the routes "Pinelli-Sabbadini" and "Lenoir" to finish up the last pitch of the classic "Ottoz" route.
Fancy of Peckers
Fancy of Peckers - Col du Peigne
M5+ R
After some fun initial pitches, the route connects the snowy gully of Full Love... for dry and ice with the exit of the 1942 Livacic - Martinetti route, of which there is little news about "winter garb" repeats, apart from...
Follow the Gully
Follow the Gully - Barre des Ecrins
M6
Short but intense gully. In dry conditions the route is difficult to protect. At times the rock quality is poor. Grandiose setting, total isolation.
Fracastorus
Fracastorus - Vallée de Freissinières
III 3+
This is the first icefall you come across upon entering the Freissinières valley and it is also an ideal introduction to the area. This mid-length route is 5 pitches long and climbs moderate angled ice (max 70°/75°) before a short...
Full Love... for dry and ice
Full Love... for dry and ice - Aiguille du Peigne
V, 5+,M6 R
This winter outing, described by Griffith as "simply awesome" follows the upper half of a very rarely – if ever - repeated British route established in summer 1967 by James Fullalove and Brian Robertson with the use of difficult aid...
Geronimo
Geronimo - Vallée de Freissinières
IV/5
Together with Au-delà des ombres this is the longest outing on the entire face. The route follows a interesting series of walls and free-standing drips. This beautiful vertical journey is never excessively demanding and usually climbs plenty of ice. The...
Goulotte Bournier Vogler
Goulotte Bournier Vogler - Aiguille du Midi
III/4 M
Easy ascent at altitude. The fast approach and easy return render this an ideal climb to get to know the area.
Goulotte Perroux Profit
Goulotte Perroux Profit - Aiguille du Midi
III/4 M5
Nice climb at altitude. The fast approach and easy return render this a classic outing in the Mont Blanc range.
Gramusat Direct
Gramusat Direct - Vallée de Freissinières
III/5+
Gramusat Direct is a beautiful and logical line, a true classic. Unlike its name suggest, the seven exciting pitches weave their way though the wall in search of the easiest way up. Three bolts on the second pitch protect...
Happy together
Happy together - Vallée de Freissinières
III/4
Happy together is the streak located in a sort of gully on the extreme lefthand side of the Tete de Gramusat. It shares the same start as Ice Pocalypse, then breaks off right when this divides into two.
Ice Pocalypse
Ice Pocalypse - Vallée de Freissinières
III/4
Ice Pocalypse is the streak located in a sort of gully on the extreme left of the Tete de Gramusat. It shares the same start as Happy Together, then breaks of left when this divides into two. Pocalypse is normally...


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